SECTION 9: ELEVATORS: Difference between revisions
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* Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com | * Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post].<br>Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out. | ||
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Dave Corwith: | Dave Corwith: | ||
Revision as of 16:44, 18 March 2024
Build Instruction Updates
- 9/6/2023 09_10.pdf
Skin bonding to rear spar.
Check for more recent updates here
Builder Videos
Plane Lady:
Page 9-7
- Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See this FB post.
Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out.
Dave Corwith:
Section 9-16 Elevator Trim Tab Fabrication:
My Notes:
- Step 5 Bending the ends of the trim tabs:
Make a wooden trim tab template verbatim from the templates. Use this on the inside of the area to be bent. Now put a reverse wedge on the top so the clamps will work. Now the outboard end is square (90 deg) so offset 1/32 as illustrated then clamp to table FIRM, and bend with wood block. I skipped the double sided tape as I was able to precisely clamp w/ 1/32 offset. I used a plastic peen on the rivet gun set to 40 psi. Bend the bottom first. Use the plastic peen to sharpen the edge of the bend. - Now bend the top down and match drill.
When doing the other end, draw a line w/ sharpie from the angle edges. Put the wood block in at the same angle as the line. Clamp to the table same as other end. Clamp it FIRM.
Section 9-17 Step 2:
I used my buddy's 90 deg "shear/brake" with a 1/4-1/2" angle iron. I slightly opened up the trim tab while gently bending to 15 degrees. Came out ok. Better than just doing it with duck bill pliers.
Elevator Trim Tab Peening
Section 9-21 Trim Tab Templates
- as svg files, they print correctly 1:1 with e.g. free Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/))
Trailing edge foam ribs.svg
Trim tab foam ribs.svg
See also hints concerning printing at 1:1 scale in SECTION_39:_CONTROL_SYSTEM
