RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION

2025-01-30T20:37:17Z

Deltapilot01: /* Build Instruction Updates */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/23_10.pdf 23_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== page 23-3 ====
* In summer 2022, Vans could not source the correct push rod material for W1018A, so they sent out ones that are slightly narrower inside. The plans call for 4130 1/2 O.D. .035 steel tubing material (powder coated), the replacement had thicker walls at same OD, 4130 1/2 O.D. .049 tubing (not powder coated). A 7/16 reamer (e.g. $21 at [https://www.yardstore.com/reamer-chucking-7-16 Yardstore]) is needed to make the AN490-HT8P (AKA VA-4908P) rod ends fit. The replacement rod material is not powder coated and needs to be primed.
* It is common that the rod end doesn't easily fit into the push rod tube. Sanding is then necessary. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5779506478837070/ FB thread].

==== page 23-4 ====
* Part WD-421-R, the bellcrank, is used in several models. The RV-10 plans show it without nut-plate mounting holes for the autopilot servo attachment. Ignore those extra holes for the RV-10. See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175060 VAF thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5265521493568907 FB post]

==== page 23-5 ====
* Step 3 calls for insertion of WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars. That part is not included in the kit. You need to fabricate them by cutting the ST4130-035X7/8X22 steel pipe into 2 equal parts. This is not explicitly called out in the place, although the packing list describes that steel pipe as 'Makes 2 WD-1014C or CS-00009B'
'''page 23-7'''

* Figure 1 implies there is a bearing installed on the forward end in the Tank Attach Bracket. In my QB wing kit, this bearing was not installed, but was included in wing parts. Instructions for installing this bearing are on page 18-5, step 5.

==== page 23-9 ====
* Step 2: incorrect reference to Page 21-8, Figure 4 and Figure 3. Looks like it should reference Page 21-10 Figure 1 and Figure 2.
* Important: Read this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206490 VAF thread] on rivet interference with rear spar. Aileron may jam in full up position if rivet has ability to be in contact with spar.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 43: CABIN COVER

2023-07-09T18:51:43Z

Deltapilot01: /* Posts */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
==== Posts ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6271632386291141 FB 7/23]
*(D. Peterson) This is time consuming, but it isn't rocket science. It is an expensive part & you don't want to mess it up, but be methodical & patient and it will be fine. We started with Dremels with Permagrit cutoff disks and also a Dewalt oscillating tool with a "fast wood" blade which worked surprisingly well (get a couple extra blades). I tried a jigsaw, but the blades I had dulled super fast. The 40 grit paper on a belt sander worked very well for the closer work and getting the bottom and sides of the door thin enough. We traced the scribe line with a fine tip sharpie and rough cut to that, then worked our way down until it fit. We probably put it on and off the airplane 15-20 times, which is a bit of a pain, but not bad in the big scheme of things. I now understand what people mean when they say it gets "razor thin"; the edges get very sharp as you get close to the end. Use caution! One thing we did wrong at first was trying fit the aft edge of the Upper Fwd Fuse OUTSIDE the cabin top. It doesn't work well that way. The skin goes INSIDE the cabin top. Seems obvious now. See pic. One thing we did toward the end of the door bottom was get a micrometer out and get average current readings, subtract 0.0625 (our goal of thinning for that round) so we had a goal to trim to. If you do this, mark your micrometer so you are sticking it "into" the cabin edge the same amount (the fiberglass tapers, so the depth of material into the throat of the micrometer affects your measurement). Before it got too thin we were drawing thin permanent marker lines to trim to. I second breathing protection, safety glasses, and hearing protection at least. We also used the air hose to blow ourselves off numerous times. Good luck. It took two of us about a day and a half. It wasn't as bad as I expected.[[File:Upper Fwd Fuse vs. Cabin Top.png|thumb|Aft edge of Upper Fwd Fuse needs to go to the INTERIOR of the cabin top door frame.]]
*
==== Videos ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfFgaco04lg Craig's video]
* Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp' videos
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87uc-8NvbnE Cabin Cover 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAhOOzAMrv0 Cabin Cover 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmQgmbdjh18 Cabin Cover 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEIomP9hEPA Cabin Cover 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WL5ypHJTRI Cabin Cover 5]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80ZSJNI8k30 Cabin Cover 6]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD0hK9_cg5w Cabin Cover 7]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_WvbSfOukc Cabin Cover 8]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YYSrE1i8X0 Cabin Cover 9]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRN7ohC4B6w Cabin Cover 10]

==== Page 43-3 ====
* Step 1: The cover's scribe lines for where it needs to mate with the door opening of the fuselage are too far apart. The door opening is only 37 inches but the scribe lines yield a 37 7/16 wide cover. See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206804 VAF thread] for details.

File:Upper Fwd Fuse vs. Cabin Top.png

2023-07-09T18:50:32Z

Deltapilot01:

The aft edge of the Upper Fwd Fuse needs to go to the interior of the plane relative to the cabin top door frame.

SECTION 43: CABIN COVER

2023-07-09T18:48:30Z

Deltapilot01: /* Videos */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
==== Posts ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6271632386291141 FB 7/23]
*(D. Peterson) This is time consuming, but it isn't rocket science. It is an expensive part & you don't want to mess it up, but be methodical & patient and it will be fine. We started with Dremels with Permagrit cutoff disks and also a Dewalt oscillating tool with a "fast wood" blade which worked surprisingly well (get a couple extra blades). I tried a jigsaw, but the blades I had dulled super fast. The 40 grit paper on a belt sander worked very well for the closer work and getting the bottom and sides of the door thin enough. We traced the scribe line with a fine tip sharpie and rough cut to that, then worked our way down until it fit. We probably put it on and off the airplane 15-20 times, which is a bit of a pain, but not bad in the big scheme of things. I now understand what people mean when they say it gets "razor thin"; the edges get very sharp as you get close to the end. Use caution! One thing we did wrong at first was trying fit the aft edge of the Upper Fwd Fuse OUTSIDE the cabin top. It doesn't work well that way. The skin goes INSIDE the cabin top. Seems obvious now. See pic. One thing we did toward the end of the door bottom was get a micrometer out and get average current readings, subtract 0.0625 (our goal of thinning for that round) so we had a goal to trim to. If you do this, mark your micrometer so you are sticking it "into" the cabin edge the same amount (the fiberglass tapers, so the depth of material into the throat of the micrometer affects your measurement). Before it got too thin we were drawing thin permanent marker lines to trim to. I second breathing protection, safety glasses, and hearing protection at least. We also used the air hose to blow ourselves off numerous times. Good luck. It took two of us about a day and a half. It wasn't as bad as I expected.
==== Videos ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfFgaco04lg Craig's video]
* Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp' videos
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87uc-8NvbnE Cabin Cover 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAhOOzAMrv0 Cabin Cover 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmQgmbdjh18 Cabin Cover 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEIomP9hEPA Cabin Cover 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WL5ypHJTRI Cabin Cover 5]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80ZSJNI8k30 Cabin Cover 6]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD0hK9_cg5w Cabin Cover 7]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_WvbSfOukc Cabin Cover 8]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YYSrE1i8X0 Cabin Cover 9]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRN7ohC4B6w Cabin Cover 10]

==== Page 43-3 ====
* Step 1: The cover's scribe lines for where it needs to mate with the door opening of the fuselage are too far apart. The door opening is only 37 inches but the scribe lines yield a 37 7/16 wide cover. See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206804 VAF thread] for details.

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2022-08-19T23:15:17Z

Deltapilot01:

'''PAGE 27-3.'''

Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== PAGE 27-2 ==
* For additional info, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs at step 3
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]]
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]

==== Step 7 ====
Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

== PAGE 27-4 ==
Step 8: if you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2022-08-19T20:39:08Z

Deltapilot01: Added info explaining this part is not installed in this Section

PAGE 27-3.

Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== PAGE 27-2 ==
* For additional info, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs at step 3
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]]
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]

==== Step 7 ====
Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

== PAGE 27-4 ==
Step 8: if you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2022-07-10T01:08:40Z

Deltapilot01: /* PAGE 26-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==PAGE 26-3 ==
If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store. If for some reason, the electronic version still doesn't match what you have, try [[File:26_10.pdf]]'''.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

==PAGE 26-5 ==
Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this step. These dimples will match with dimples in the F-1070-L and -R Mid Side Skins (Section 29-17). The front flange of F-1015A is not riveted to the F-1004D-L/R Center Section Bulkhead at this time; that is done when the Mid Side Skins are attached.

==PAGE 26-6 ==
Double check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labelled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].