RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-09-21T19:51:02Z

Elorozco1: 27-17 - check the F-1013-R longeron length before riveting.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.
* You want to end up with a gradual curve, not a crease, especially on the trailing end. So you don't want to fold the skin, you want to roll it. Pushing down or even out while twisting should keep the skin in a curve instead of a bend.
See a [https://vansairforce.net/threads/section-29-side-skin-bending-a-good-reason-to-go-the-quick-build-route.237939/ discussion on VAF] for more details.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

* Additional Step: Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1. Repeat for the left side.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

* The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs". Dimple the aft tabs also.

== 29-16 ==
* Step 4: Rivet the F-1042E-L/R brackets to F-01042-L/R before clecoing the F-1040 side channels. It is easier setting these rivets now than after the side channels are installed.
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Step 1: Before riveting the F-1013-R longeron to the F-1070-R side skin, cleco the tailcone bulkhead to the F-1070-L/R side skins and verify the F-1013-R is not interfering (i.e., too long) with the F-1006-C bulkhead placement. In my case I needed to trim about 1/16" of the end of the longeron to allow the bulkhead holes to line up with the skin holes. Much easier to do this when you can pull the longeron away from the skin to do the trimming.
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-09-21T19:43:13Z

Elorozco1: Added note on 29-16 Step 4 about riveting F-1042E brackets before installing side channels.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.
* You want to end up with a gradual curve, not a crease, especially on the trailing end. So you don't want to fold the skin, you want to roll it. Pushing down or even out while twisting should keep the skin in a curve instead of a bend.
See a [https://vansairforce.net/threads/section-29-side-skin-bending-a-good-reason-to-go-the-quick-build-route.237939/ discussion on VAF] for more details.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

* Additional Step: Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1. Repeat for the left side.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

* The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs". Dimple the aft tabs also.

== 29-16 ==
* Step 4: Rivet the F-1042E-L/R brackets to F-01042-L/R before clecoing the F-1040 side channels. It is easier setting these rivets now than after the side channels are installed.
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS

2025-09-21T19:37:29Z

Elorozco1: Added note on 25-3 on countersinking holes on F-01004C.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 01/07/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/25_10.pdf 25_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
* If your priming process takes setup and cleanup, consider opening the PDF and searching for the word "prime" before you start each section. Consider circling these priming steps on the printed instructions.
* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

=== Notes ===

====PAGE 25-2====

Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.

So, while you are on this step, I recommend machine countersinking on the top side of the bottom flange (you'll CSK all of the holes in the bottom flange later as part of the normal instructions but they'll be deeper than normal due to the thickness of the bottom skin). I countersunk the top holes approximately the same size as I would do for a normal countersunk rivet factory head. See the image on this page for what it will look like when you are done with Section 28.
[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg|thumb|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]

====PAGE 25-3====
===== Conduit Summary =====
The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more. 
You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.
If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy. 

===== Hints =====
Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

Do yourself a favor and read forward in the plans to Sections 29 and OP-37 (even if you do not use the Van's provided wiring harness, OP-37 is very useful in understanding the options for routing electrical circuits).

Later in the build, especially after the side skins are installed, it is quite difficult and awkward to cut new holes for conduit or other pass-throughs. Installing caterpillar or snap bushings can be awkward later, too. You will save considerable time later by thinking ahead at this point.

See also Section 26 where the F-1017 under-seat ribs can be much more easily modified before installation to allow conduit and antenna installation, which might not be done until Section 35 or later.

'''ENSURE that any additional holes you cut in the bulkheads are properly spaced and, if needed, reinforced per the guidelines in AC43.13.'''

See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject. 
See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

===== Countersinking F-01004C-L/R =====
See Page 29-14, Step 10. There are 5 holes in each F-01004C-L/R for double-flush rivets that will need to be machine countersunk from the inboard side of the flange. It will be much easier to do it here rather than waiting until the fuselage is assembled.

====PAGE 25-4====
* Step 6 Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.
* Step 7 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.

====PAGE 25-5====
* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].

====PAGE 25-6====
*Step 4 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.

====PAGE 25-7====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the forward most F-1005B. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

====PAGE 25-8====
If you are building from a final sized fuselage kit,
it is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later

[[Category:Hints]]