RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2024-09-23T06:18:26Z

Hoz: Heat box plans and mod

'''Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the manual.'''

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY1PJQr3pZk Austin Manke: RV-10 Firewall - Section 27]

=== Supplies ===
* Suggest using this instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (I used it around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php
* Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
* I found that I needed a double-offset back rivet set that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set
* You might want 1ft of this (see below): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php

== PAGE 27-2 ==
* For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]
* Step 3: Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]] More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/ You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here], for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-09-18 at 9.23.27 PM.png|300px]].
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]
* If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
==== Step 4 ====
* Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.

==== Step 5 ====
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.

==== Step 6 ====
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.

One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).

==== Step 7 ====
*Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

== PAGE 27-3 ==
* Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
* Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

== PAGE 27-4 ==
* Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
* Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
* Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
* Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
* Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
* Step 8:
** If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
** Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7594620740658959 FB post].

== PAGE 27-6 ==
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.

Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
[[File:TG-10 insulation.jpg|thumb|Insulate valve door of TB-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing to the tunnel]]
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
[[File:Heat Box plans.jpg|thumb|Heat box plans]]

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

File:Heat Box plans.jpg

2024-09-23T06:17:54Z

Hoz:

1 page instructions on assembling the heat box

File:TG-10 insulation.jpg

2024-09-23T06:13:36Z

Hoz:

Insulated door of TG-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing through to tunnel

SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION

2024-08-06T13:06:29Z

Hoz: /* page 23-9 */ Incorrect references

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/23_10.pdf 23_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== page 23-3 ====
* In summer 2022, Vans could not source the correct push rod material for W1018A, so they sent out ones that are slightly narrower inside. The plans call for 4130 1/2 O.D. .035 steel tubing material (powder coated), the replacement had thicker walls at same OD, 4130 1/2 O.D. .049 tubing (not powder coated). A 7/16 reamer (e.g. $21 at [https://www.yardstore.com/reamer-chucking-7-16 Yardstore]) is needed to make the AN490-HT8P (AKA VA-4908P) rod ends fit. The replacement rod material is not powder coated and needs to be primed.
* It is common that the rod end doesn't easily fit into the push rod tube. Sanding is then necessary. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5779506478837070/ FB thread].

==== page 23-4 ====
* Part WD-421-R, the bellcrank, is used in several models. The RV-10 plans show it without nut-plate mounting holes for the autopilot servo attachment. Ignore those extra holes for the RV-10. See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175060 VAF thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5265521493568907 FB post]

==== page 23-5 ====
* Step 3 calls for insertion of WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars. That part is not included in the kit. You need to fabricate them by cutting the ST4130-035X7/8X22 steel pipe into 2 equal parts. This is not explicitly called out in the place, although the packing list describes that steel pipe as 'Makes 2 WD-1014C or CS-00009B'

==== page 23-9 ====
* Step 2: incorrect reference to Page 21-8, Figure 4 and Figure 3. Looks like it should reference Page 21-10 Figure 1 and Figure 2.
* Important: Read this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206490 VAF thread] on rivet interference with rear spar. Aileron may jam in full up position if rivet has ability to be in contact with spar.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION

2024-07-08T06:01:06Z

Hoz: Heading

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/23_10.pdf 23_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== page 23-3 ====
* In summer 2022, Vans could not source the correct push rod material for W1018A, so they sent out ones that are slightly narrower inside. The plans call for 4130 1/2 O.D. .035 steel tubing material (powder coated), the replacement had thicker walls at same OD, 4130 1/2 O.D. .049 tubing (not powder coated). A 7/16 reamer (e.g. $21 at [https://www.yardstore.com/reamer-chucking-7-16 Yardstore]) is needed to make the AN490-HT8P (AKA VA-4908P) rod ends fit. The replacement rod material is not powder coated and needs to be primed.
* It is common that the rod end doesn't easily fit into the push rod tube. Sanding is then necessary. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5779506478837070/ FB thread].

==== page 23-4 ====
* Part WD-421-R, the bellcrank, is used in several models. The RV-10 plans show it without nut-plate mounting holes for the autopilot servo attachment. Ignore those extra holes for the RV-10. See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175060 VAF thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5265521493568907 FB post]

==== page 23-5 ====
* Step 3 calls for insertion of WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars. That part is not included in the kit. You need to fabricate them by cutting the ST4130-035X7/8X22 steel pipe into 2 equal parts. This is not explicitly called out in the place, although the packing list describes that steel pipe as 'Makes 2 WD-1014C or CS-00009B'

==== page 23-9 ====
* Important: Read this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206490 VAF thread] on rivet interference with rear spar. Aileron may jam in full up position if rivet has ability to be in contact with spar.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION

2024-07-08T06:00:42Z

Hoz: Clarification to fabricate WD-1014C

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/23_10.pdf 23_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== page 23-3 ====
* In summer 2022, Vans could not source the correct push rod material for W1018A, so they sent out ones that are slightly narrower inside. The plans call for 4130 1/2 O.D. .035 steel tubing material (powder coated), the replacement had thicker walls at same OD, 4130 1/2 O.D. .049 tubing (not powder coated). A 7/16 reamer (e.g. $21 at [https://www.yardstore.com/reamer-chucking-7-16 Yardstore]) is needed to make the AN490-HT8P (AKA VA-4908P) rod ends fit. The replacement rod material is not powder coated and needs to be primed.
* It is common that the rod end doesn't easily fit into the push rod tube. Sanding is then necessary. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5779506478837070/ FB thread].

==== page 23-4 ====
* Part WD-421-R, the bellcrank, is used in several models. The RV-10 plans show it without nut-plate mounting holes for the autopilot servo attachment. Ignore those extra holes for the RV-10. See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=175060 VAF thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5265521493568907 FB post]
page 23-5

* Step 3 calls for insertion of WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars. That part is not included in the kit. You need to fabricate them by cutting the ST4130-035X7/8X22 steel pipe into 2 equal parts. This is not explicitly called out in the place, although the packing list describes that steel pipe as 'Makes 2 WD-1014C or CS-00009B'

==== page 23-9 ====
* Important: Read this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206490 VAF thread] on rivet interference with rear spar. Aileron may jam in full up position if rivet has ability to be in contact with spar.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2024-04-03T06:20:21Z

Hoz: Add hinge placement and photo

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== General ==
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]

== 45-06 ==
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[index.php?title=Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinge must be placed Forward side, and the WD-1019-R hinge must be placed Aft side of the doors, not Left and Right as the part naming would suggest. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|thumb|Cabin door hinge placement]]

== 45-08 ==
* Silpruf Method [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article]. This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation. The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.
* [http://aroundncircles.com/media/maintenance/295uv-guide.pdf Sikaflex instructions]
* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[index.php?title=Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV12].

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg

2024-04-03T06:18:57Z

Hoz:

Hinge placement for cabin doors, showing mirror image placement for Left and Right sides of the cabin

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2023-03-25T06:51:25Z

Hoz:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo) 
[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb|left]] 

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== Page 28-5 ====
Plans call for installation of the VA-188 Flo-Scan Mount Bracket to be installed in the tunnel location. This bracket is to be used for the Flo-Scan as well as for the FT-60 'Red Cube' fuel flow transducer. The positioning in the tunnel (between the electrical fuel pump and the engine-driven pump on the engine side of the firewall) is contrary to the installation instructions for the FT-60. See Vansairforce threads on this topic for alternative locations ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=23682&highlight=fuel+flow+transducer link] and [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=11698 link]).
[[File:FT-60 Placement.jpg|none|thumb]]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 6: On the version of the plans published 01/07/21 figure 1, there are three rivets called out to be countersunk for an AN426AD4 rivet - the top row of rivets attaching the forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead. In fact, all four of the top row of rivets holding the forward seat supports should be countersunk. The F-01043D cover panel lays across all of those rivets and a universal head would cause a bulge. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.

Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

==== Page 28-11 ====
Step 5: On the version of the plans dated 01/07/21, the rivet callouts in figure 2 to attach the inboard and outboard forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead don't add up to equal the number of holes joining the parts. The top row should be AN426AD4-5 qty 4 (NOT 6 + 6), and the bottom two rows should be AN470AD4-5 qty 8 (this is correct, albeit labelled poorly). The third row is left open to attach the fwd floor in a later chapter. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.
==== Page 28-12 ====
Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.
==== Page 28-13 ====
Step 2: Before riveting the F-1048 L and R Fwd Fuselage Ribs to the bottom skin, you need to ensure you've dimpled the 8 holes (4L and 4R) for the Vent DL-10 2.4 Flanged Ducts. These are installed on as per page 36-4 using CS4-4 rivets, but the plans omit instructions to create the dimples until too late. Ref on VAF [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=149989 here]

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2023-03-25T06:51:02Z

Hoz: Dimple for rivets needed on page 36-4

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo) 
[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb|left]] 

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== Page 28-5 ====
Plans call for installation of the VA-188 Flo-Scan Mount Bracket to be installed in the tunnel location. This bracket is to be used for the Flo-Scan as well as for the FT-60 'Red Cube' fuel flow transducer. The positioning in the tunnel (between the electrical fuel pump and the engine-driven pump on the engine side of the firewall) is contrary to the installation instructions for the FT-60. See Vansairforce threads on this topic for alternative locations ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=23682&highlight=fuel+flow+transducer link] and [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=11698 link]).
[[File:FT-60 Placement.jpg|none|thumb]]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 6: On the version of the plans published 01/07/21 figure 1, there are three rivets called out to be countersunk for an AN426AD4 rivet - the top row of rivets attaching the forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead. In fact, all four of the top row of rivets holding the forward seat supports should be countersunk. The F-01043D cover panel lays across all of those rivets and a universal head would cause a bulge. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.

Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

==== Page 28-11 ====
Step 5: On the version of the plans dated 01/07/21, the rivet callouts in figure 2 to attach the inboard and outboard forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead don't add up to equal the number of holes joining the parts. The top row should be AN426AD4-5 qty 4 (NOT 6 + 6), and the bottom two rows should be AN470AD4-5 qty 8 (this is correct, albeit labelled poorly). The third row is left open to attach the fwd floor in a later chapter. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.
==== Page 28-12 ====
Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.
==== Page 28-12 ====
Step 2: Before riveting the F-1048 L and R Fwd Fuselage Ribs to the bottom skin, you need to ensure you've dimpled the 8 holes (4L and 4R) for the Vent DL-10 2.4 Flanged Ducts. These are installed on as per page 36-4 using CS4-4 rivets, but the plans omit instructions to create the dimples until too late. Ref on VAF [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=149989 here]

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-10-21T12:43:31Z

Hoz:

File:FT-60 Placement.jpg

2022-10-21T12:41:56Z

Hoz:

Manuals extract re FT-60 placement

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2022-07-27T12:37:55Z

Hoz: /* Build Instruction Updates */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== PAGE 27-2 ==
* For additional info, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs at step 3
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]]
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]

==== Step 7 ====
Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

== PAGE 27-4 ==
Step 8: if you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2022-07-25T06:19:32Z

Hoz: /* PAGE 27-2 */

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T15:37:36Z

Hoz:

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T15:36:57Z

Hoz:

Talk:SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T15:35:35Z

Hoz: Created page with "The comments on this page referring to Figure 2 double flush rivets are not clear - I cannot see where on this page of the instructions this is applicable."

The comments on this page referring to Figure 2 double flush rivets are not clear - I cannot see where on this page of the instructions this is applicable.

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T15:32:32Z

Hoz: /* Page 28-2 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===
==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo) 
[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb|left]] 

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.

==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T15:22:18Z

Hoz: /* Page 28-2 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===
==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo).

[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb]]

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.
==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2022-07-20T11:16:18Z

Hoz: /* Page 28-2 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===
==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo).
[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb]]

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.
==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg

2022-07-20T11:15:15Z

Hoz:

Missing nut plate in parts vs what's shown on plans

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2022-07-04T05:33:11Z

Hoz: /* PAGE 26-3 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==PAGE 26-3 ==
If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store. If for some reason, the electronic version still doesn't match what you have, try [[File:26_10.pdf]]'''.

Step 6 gotcha: Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

==PAGE 26-5 ==
Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this step.

==PAGE 26-6 ==
Double check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labelled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS

2022-06-29T06:50:38Z

Hoz: /* PAGE 25-4 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 01/07/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/25_10.pdf 25_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==PAGE 25-1==

==PAGE 25-2==

==PAGE 25-3==
=== F-1004C-L and F1004C-R ===
Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

Do yourself a favor and read forward in the plans to Sections 29 and OP-37 (even if you do not use the Van's provided wiring harness, OP-37 is very useful in understanding the options for routing electrical circuits).

Later in the build, especially after the side skins are installed, it is quite difficult and awkward to cut new holes for conduit or other pass-throughs. Installing caterpillar or snap bushings can be awkward later, too. You will save considerable time later by thinking ahead at this point.

See also Section 26 where the F-1017 under-seat ribs can be much more easily modified before installation to allow conduit and antenna installation, which might not be done until Section 35 or later.

'''ENSURE that any additional holes you cut in the bulkheads are properly spaced and, if needed, reinforced per the guidelines in AC43.13.'''

==PAGE 25-4==
Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.

==PAGE 25-5==

==PAGE 25-6==