RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-12T07:13:53Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** The Vans windows come with a black trim line. Even if you cut to the inside of the black line, the window will still be slightly too large to fit. After further trimming, the window will fit into the joggle but the marking tool that is being described in the Silpruf videos will not work properly as you can't run it along the joggle edge where the window touches it or where the gap is too small. It is therefore necessary to do 4 trimmings:
*** Trim to inside of black line from Vans
*** Trim to make window actually fit into the joggle
*** Trim window back enough so the marking tool can ride along the joggle edge
*** Trim to exactly the black line you drew with the tool as described in the videos
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Consider drilling the cleco holes with a #41 drill instead of #40. They still go in fine and sit tighter. If a cleco is not holding when tightening, try to rotate it by 90 degrees as the claws come out on opposite sides in one particular direction.
** Be careful with wing nut clecos: Since the doors are double walled, you may not be able to fully insert the wing nut cleco in shallow areas. Do not proceed if this happens, rather use a thicker stack of wood pieces to shorten how deep they sit. As you tighten the wing nut cleco, the spreader of the cleco is being pushed into the hole. If it hits the inside skin, and you keep tightening, you will pull the cleco out and the hole is ruined.
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** When removing the squeeze-out on the inside, run the spatula tight along the inside edge of the opening and loosely against the window.
** After having removed each segment of the outside tape, and before inserting a cleaned-off cleco back in, put a small piece of fresh clean tape onto the outside skin, underneath the wooden piece that goes across, to protect the outside skin. That's safer than just flipping over the dirty wooden piece as the video instructs.
** Consider cutting the silicone stubs so far back that only very little pressure from the cleco is needed to make the window sit flush. If the stubs push back a lot, the window will be pushed back out a little bit when you remove a cleco during the clean-up process and that will suck silicone into the widened gap. After you then tighten the cleaned-up cleco, the silicone will ooze out but now the tape has been removed and further clean-out cannot happen. Also this forth and back of pressure will make the inside squeeze-out inconsistent.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 80, then 120, and finally 240 Grit belts (hang it off an engine hoist or ceiling to relieve wrist forces). [[File:Belt sander.jpg|300x300px]]
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half lengthwise, then cut off the tab length you need. That way the grain runs across the gap. If you cut the paint stick as it comes across, they will break under load as the grain is parallel to the gap.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

Registration Hints

2026-05-11T16:40:36Z

Martin:

* [https://www.faa.gov/sites/faa.gov/files/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/amateur_built/Am_Blt_Chklist_Job_Aid.pdf 51% rule guideline]
* [https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_20-27G.pdf AC_20-27G see appendix 8 for assembly checklist]
* [https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_20-27G.pdf AC_20-27G clarifying 51% rule]
* [https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_65-23A_CHG_1.pdf AC_65-23A clarifying repairman certificate]
* Some insurances require your kit project to be registered as an airplane with the FAA, even if you just want to have a non-moving insurance. (Falcon does, Avemco does not need a registration)
* You need to enter details of the engine including the serial number.
* Consider buying the EAA registration kit which includes cockpit / experimental stickers, FAA forms and instructions ([https://www.eaa.org/shop/product-detail?i=941&pi=926&pr=2583379 EAA Amateur-Built Certification Kit]).
* You will need a formal "kit bill of sale" from Vans (different from the invoices for your kits). To obtain the bill of sale, email "registrations" at Vans. They will first send you a waiver to sign and a document request form to fill out. The process end-to-end will take 2 weeks since it goes via USPS. What you will receive is an original and a copy of the 8050-2 form ("Aircraft Bill of Sale" is modified to read "Kit Bill of Sale"). When you upload form 8050-2, don't use the bill of sale option, use the kit bill of sale option. The N-number is left blank for you to fill in. Don't forget to fill it in before uploading the bill of sale. The form has no field for a price. The online portal has a field for date and price for each upload.
* The "kit bill of sale" has a model number, "RV-10", or more recently, also "RV-10 QUICKBUILD". This will go into the FAA database as the "kit model". It is not really related to what you call your model, e.g. "<First Name> <Last Name> RV-10". The FAA will pick up the "kit model" from the kit bill of sales not from your registration form.
* You will need a filled out and notarized form 8050-88 (comes with the EAA kit). Plan for a visit to your nearest print-shop / notary.
* Online Registration
** You will have to create a CARES login with verified cell phone, email and Google "authenticator" app (also works on iPhone) ([https://myaccessxtl.faa.gov/ https://myaccessxtl.faa.gov/]). You need to keep using this account every 6 months or so, otherwise, the account will expire (you will get an email).
** The online registration page is at [https://cares.faa.gov/home Online Aircraft Registration Portal].
* There are companies that walk your registration over to the FAA to expedite the registration for some $135, check [https://www.aictitle.com/services.html AIC Title]. As of March 2023 however, new aircraft registrations only take 2 weeks when mailed in anyway.

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-10T05:55:46Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** The Vans windows come with a black trim line. Even if you cut to the inside of the black line, the window will still be slightly too large to fit. After further trimming, the window will fit into the joggle but the marking tool that is being described in the Silpruf videos will not work properly as you can't run it along the joggle edge where the window touches it or where the gap is too small. It is therefore necessary to do 4 trimmings:
*** Trim to inside of black line from Vans
*** Trim to make window actually fit into the joggle
*** Trim window back enough so the marking tool can ride along the joggle edge
*** Trim to exactly the black line you drew with the tool as described in the videos
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Consider drilling the cleco holes with a #41 drill instead of #40. They still go in fine and sit tighter.
** Be careful with wing nut clecos: Since the doors are double walled, you may not be able to fully insert the wing nut cleco in shallow areas. Do not proceed if this happens, rather use a thicker stack of wood pieces to shorten how deep they sit. As you tighten the wing nut cleco, the spreader of the cleco is being pushed into the hole. If it hits the inside skin, and you keep tightening, you will pull the cleco out and the hole is ruined.
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 80, then 120, and finally 240 Grit belts (hang it off an engine hoist or ceiling to relieve wrist forces). [[File:Belt sander.jpg|300x300px]]
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half lengthwise, then cut off the tab length you need. That way the grain runs across the gap. If you cut the paint stick as it comes across, they will break under load as the grain is parallel to the gap.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-05-07T07:07:11Z

Martin: /* Optional Sections */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|23038 Rev A
|Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=cT8XL8eCKr64Wg6ntYb3E7
|2023/5/4
|Garmin has implemented several design and manufacturing process improvements to improve GSA 28 reliability. The latest update has been added to a consolidation of all past improvements into a single effort we are calling a GSA 28 Service-Life Extension Program. The Service-Life Extension Program allows up to five years to exchange, under warranty, all affected GSA 28 servos for servos marked with Mod 1.
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-05-07T07:06:34Z

Martin: /* Optional Sections */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
* [[TEST2]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|23038 Rev A
|Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=cT8XL8eCKr64Wg6ntYb3E7
|2023/5/4
|Garmin has implemented several design and manufacturing process improvements to improve GSA 28 reliability. The latest update has been added to a consolidation of all past improvements into a single effort we are calling a GSA 28 Service-Life Extension Program. The Service-Life Extension Program allows up to five years to exchange, under warranty, all affected GSA 28 servos for servos marked with Mod 1.
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-05-07T07:05:32Z

Martin: /* Optional Sections */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
* [[TEST2|TEST]]2
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|23038 Rev A
|Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=cT8XL8eCKr64Wg6ntYb3E7
|2023/5/4
|Garmin has implemented several design and manufacturing process improvements to improve GSA 28 reliability. The latest update has been added to a consolidation of all past improvements into a single effort we are calling a GSA 28 Service-Life Extension Program. The Service-Life Extension Program allows up to five years to exchange, under warranty, all affected GSA 28 servos for servos marked with Mod 1.
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-05-07T07:05:11Z

Martin: /* Optional Sections */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
* [[TEST2|TEST]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|23038 Rev A
|Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=cT8XL8eCKr64Wg6ntYb3E7
|2023/5/4
|Garmin has implemented several design and manufacturing process improvements to improve GSA 28 reliability. The latest update has been added to a consolidation of all past improvements into a single effort we are calling a GSA 28 Service-Life Extension Program. The Service-Life Extension Program allows up to five years to exchange, under warranty, all affected GSA 28 servos for servos marked with Mod 1.
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

TEST

2026-05-07T07:04:25Z

Martin: Martin moved page TEST to TEST2

#REDIRECT [[TEST2]]

TEST2

2026-05-07T07:04:25Z

Martin: Martin moved page TEST to TEST2

FOO

TEST2

2026-05-07T07:04:14Z

Martin: Created page with "FOO"

FOO

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-05-07T07:03:57Z

Martin: /* Optional Sections */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
* [[TEST]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|23038 Rev A
|Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=cT8XL8eCKr64Wg6ntYb3E7
|2023/5/4
|Garmin has implemented several design and manufacturing process improvements to improve GSA 28 reliability. The latest update has been added to a consolidation of all past improvements into a single effort we are calling a GSA 28 Service-Life Extension Program. The Service-Life Extension Program allows up to five years to exchange, under warranty, all affected GSA 28 servos for servos marked with Mod 1.
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-02T06:36:06Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Be careful with wing nut clecos: Since the doors are double walled, you may not be able to fully insert the wing nut cleco in shallow areas. Do not proceed if this happens, rather use a thicker stack of wood pieces. As you tighten the wing nut cleco, the spreader dowel of the cleco is being pushed into the hole. If it hits the inside skin, and you keep tightening, you will pull the cleco out and the hole is ruined.
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 120 Grit belt (hang it off an engine hoist or ceiling to relieve wrist forces). [[File:Belt sander.jpg|300x300px]]
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half, then cut off the length you need. If you cut across, they will break under load.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-01T17:25:41Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 120 Grit belt (hang it off an engine hoist or ceiling to relieve wrist forces). [[File:Belt sander.jpg|300x300px]]
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half, then cut off the length you need. If you cut across, they will break under load.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

File:Belt sander.jpg

2026-05-01T17:24:25Z

Martin:

belt sander usage

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-01T17:22:31Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 120 Grit belt (hang it off an engine hoist or ceiling to relieve wrist forces).
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half, then cut off the length you need. If you cut across, they will break under load.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-01T16:45:17Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation (note: door is double walled and holes don't go through).
** Consider using a thin piece of metal, e.g. a 3/1000" feeler gauge, to protect the window while drilling.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. Excellent is also the Harbor Freight 3x21 belt sander with 120 Grit belt (hang it off an engine mount or ceiling to relieve wrist forces).
** 6mm Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+, 26344, is a suitable masking tape ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C47XMU])
** Scotch Contractor Grade Masking Tape, tan, 1.41" is suitable as tape for the inside [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LAQYL0]
** Expo Wet Erase Markers are suitable [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFGQ]
** If you cut paint sticks, cut them first in half, then cut off the length you need. If you cut across, they will break under load.
** Permatex Ultra Black is suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U]
** Cleanroom 6x6 pads Lint Free are suitable[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBG71JPB]

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-05-01T16:26:56Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] (optional, not needed if Gelcoat gets removed)
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS

2026-04-26T06:33:24Z

Martin: /* Page 20-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

==== Page 20-5 ====
* Step 4 [[File:20 05 04.jpg|400x400px]] The outboard skin is “notched” and may require clearance to fit over the flap bracket without putting pressure on the skin. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/794208517366916 FB Post]
* Step 10 [[File:2022-10-29 13-20-47.jpg|400x400px]] Details of the holes for the aftmost nutplate on a QuickBuild. Not clear how to handle that top hole (it is called out in 20-5 step 9 not to be dimpled because there is no room for the dimple in that gap). There doesn't seem to be enough room for a rivet in the gap. Potentially just fasten one side of the nutplate.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS

2026-04-26T06:32:23Z

Martin: /* Page 20-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

==== Page 20-5 ====
* Step 4 [[File:20 05 04.jpg|400x400px]] The outboard skin is “notched” and may require clearance to fit over the flap bracket without putting pressure on the skin.
* Step 10 [[File:2022-10-29 13-20-47.jpg|400x400px]] Details of the holes for the aftmost nutplate on a QuickBuild. Not clear how to handle that top hole (it is called out in 20-5 step 9 not to be dimpled because there is no room for the dimple in that gap). There doesn't seem to be enough room for a rivet in the gap. Potentially just fasten one side of the nutplate.

[[Category:Hints]]

File:20 05 04.jpg

2026-04-26T06:31:11Z

Martin:

wing skin notch

SECTION 15: REAR SPAR

2026-04-24T05:41:34Z

Martin: /* Page 15-4 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/15_10.pdf 15_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGAk7JUAEgA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Rear Spar & Service Bulletin 16-03-28]

== Hints ==

=== Page 15-2 ===
[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4860594877394906/ (FB 3/20/2022) Aileron bracket errors[Ed: this page isn't very useful, as you have to be a member and logged into Facebook to see it)] YES, all the FB links assume you are a member of the two RV-10 groups: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (4,700 members) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (420 members).

=== Page 15-3 ===
* Step 3: You are asked to draw a single line along the sloped edge of W-1013D-L/R. You ignore the top horizontal edge of W-1013D-L/R. So W-1013F-L/R will only have a corner trimmed off, you are not shortening the angle in height. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6041127229341659/ FB thread].

=== Page 15-4 ===
* W-1007D Rear Spar Doubler Plate Vans had a batch of this part being too long. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/794208517366916 FB thread].

=== Page 15-5 ===
* Step 1: Match-drilling 4 of the W-1007B holes on the fork's arms create new holes in the flanges of the W-1010-L/R ribs as they don't align with the existing holes in the rib flanges [[File:2022-05-28 15-14-05.jpg|600x600px]] [[File:2022-05-28 15-13-41.jpg|600x600px]]
* Step 4: Note that there are no AN470AD4-7 rivets called out in Figure 2 even though it is listed in the legend.
* Read through the Service Bulletin [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-16-03-28 SB-16-03-28] to better understand the assembly (ignore the drill-out instructions).
*See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5079099468877778/ FB post 6/9/2022]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 15: REAR SPAR

2026-04-24T05:40:59Z

Martin: /* Page 15-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/15_10.pdf 15_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGAk7JUAEgA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Rear Spar & Service Bulletin 16-03-28]

== Hints ==

=== Page 15-2 ===
[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4860594877394906/ (FB 3/20/2022) Aileron bracket errors[Ed: this page isn't very useful, as you have to be a member and logged into Facebook to see it)] YES, all the FB links assume you are a member of the two RV-10 groups: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (4,700 members) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (420 members).

=== Page 15-3 ===
* Step 3: You are asked to draw a single line along the sloped edge of W-1013D-L/R. You ignore the top horizontal edge of W-1013D-L/R. So W-1013F-L/R will only have a corner trimmed off, you are not shortening the angle in height. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6041127229341659/ FB thread].

=== Page 15-4 ===
* W-1007D Rear Spar Doubler Plate Vans had a batch of this part being too long. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/794208517366916] thread.
=== Page 15-5 ===
* Step 1: Match-drilling 4 of the W-1007B holes on the fork's arms create new holes in the flanges of the W-1010-L/R ribs as they don't align with the existing holes in the rib flanges [[File:2022-05-28 15-14-05.jpg|600x600px]] [[File:2022-05-28 15-13-41.jpg|600x600px]]
* Step 4: Note that there are no AN470AD4-7 rivets called out in Figure 2 even though it is listed in the legend.
* Read through the Service Bulletin [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-16-03-28 SB-16-03-28] to better understand the assembly (ignore the drill-out instructions).
*See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5079099468877778/ FB post 6/9/2022]

[[Category:Hints]]

Door Locks / Hinges / Handles

2026-04-23T19:19:21Z

Martin: /* Luggage Door Seals */

== Locks & Keys ==
See [[Door Locks]] for more information.

== Seals ==

=== Cabin Door Seals ===
* Many builders decide to put the door seals on the fuselage side instead of onto the inside of the door. Two McMaster order numbers are being used: [https://www.mcmaster.com/1120A311 1120A311] (lip on inside, 3/16 edge thickness, 3/8 high): [[File:Screen Shot 2024-03-21 at 1.59.37 PM.png|300x300px]] [[File:McMasterSeal.jpg|300x300px]] [[File:McMaster2.jpg|300x300px]] '''1120A311''' and 1120A313 (lip on outside, 3/16 edge thickness, 3/8 high). Since you are building up the inside edge, the lip is better being on the inside as the groove for it will automatically form when using a throwaway seal as mold. Consider trimming the lip down, both when doing the mold, and the final install. The full lip makes it hard to get the final seal seated. The trimming can be done with a jig where you have a utility knife blade stick out of a wooden board plus left and right guides, so you only need to pull the seal through the jig once. Some builders prefer the 1120A411 variant which is for 1/4 edge thick edges. The 311 variant works fine to about 0.2" wall thickness meaning some areas (i.e. the bottom edge) need a bit of inside wall trimming. Builders usually sacrifice one set of seals as mold to form out the edges, then replace it with a clean second set. You need about 12 ft per door. This procedure will need at least 4 x 12 ft., most builder buy a bulk pack with 100 ft for future seal maintenance as some builders experience a gap where the ends meet after some time, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8671462906308065 FB thread]. Consider placing the gap behind the gas strut attach bracket. After you have your doors sit flush, and the hinges and door pins are installed, you mark a line on the canopy 0.285" back from the door's inner skin. This is the minimum distance so the seal's push-back isn't making it too hard to close the doors. The maximum distance should be 0.385". Trimming to the minimum line will make the canopy rim very thin in some areas, but with the sacrificial seal method, the inside wall will be built back up to the nominal 3/8 or 1/4 depending on the seal order number. The McMaster seal requires the hinge pockets to be closed. There are several ways to accomplish this, some are permanent which means you have to remove the door hinges on the canopy side, some prefer removable caps, see also [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]. See also:
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5447766402011081 FB thread]
** [https://marksfamilyrv10.wordpress.com/2019/02/14/doors-kinda-of-seal-it-up/ Mark's builder log]
** [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=218680 VAF thread]
** [https://vansairforce.net/threads/mcmaster-door-seal-edge-forming.153155/ VAF thread]
** [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/10/28/door-seals-and-latches/ Glen's builder log]
** [http://buildingrv10.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-door-seals.html Justin Twilbeck's log]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BirT35dY-QQ BuildFlyGo's video]
** [https://ivankristensen.smugmug.com/Building-an-RV-10-EXPERIMENTAL-aircraft/Cabin-doors/i-fbs77m4/A Ivan Kristensen's video] with door trim measurements
** [https://ivankristensen.smugmug.com/Building-an-RV-10-EXPERIMENTAL-aircraft/Cabin-doors Ivan Kristensen's door seal photos] (now on smugmug, no longer on ivankristensen.phanfare.com). The sparse text for photos is available on the [https://web.archive.org/web/20150111090452/http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_3334806 web archive].
** [[Media:RV-10 McMaster Carr Door Seal Installation Compilation.pdf|Les Kearney's door seal compilation pdf]] (originally posted to the Matronics mailing list)
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7639470282840671 FB thread]

* Some builders use the standard Vans way of putting the seals on the doors but use better seals sold by McMaster.
** See [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=221469 VAF thread]

=== Luggage Door Seals ===
* [https://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/ Aircraft Door Seals] [[File:2023-12-16 18-31-07.jpg|533x533px]]
* See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=222256 VAF Thread]
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/26385768061117610 FB Post]

== Door Strut Upgrades ==
* [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two Upgraded strut brackets] (especially useful if you use McMaster door seals)
* [https://store.vansaircraft.com/c-1016-hd-rv-10-heavy-duty-door-strut-c-1016-hd.html Heavy Duty Door Strut from Vans (600 instead of 500N)]
* [https://store.easylift.com/a1a1f50-100-287-600n/ Bansbach easylift door strut A1A1F50-100-287 part#10017Y1 (600N instead of 500N, call to order)]
* Ordering 650N at Bansbach: Select the 650N version of [https://store.easylift.com/b0n0f50-100-247-xxxn/ B0N0F50-100-247/XXXN], add 2 of those, then add 4 of the end fittings [https://store.easylift.com/end-fittings/a1-m8-aluminum-hinge-eye-endfitting/ A1 M8 Aluminum Hinge Eye Endfitting]. These end fittings yield a total length of the 287mm similar to the other fully assembled struts. First timers can try coupon code 15PERCENTOFF. If you use the upgraded strut brackets, the Bansbach end fittings need to be trimmed back on the canopy side. Ensure that the gas strut has enough play at the upgraded strut bracket side so it can swivel a tiny bit. When the door opens, the gas strut will be forced a bit sideways as the hinge line of the door and hinge line of the upgraded strut do not 100% align.
* [https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20230111_Lift_Struts/ Tim Olson's build page on struts]
* Door strut hardware [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4863472447107149 (FB 3/22/2022)]
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8705872866200402 FB thread].

== Hinges ==
* [https://brassmonkey.tech/store/ Machined hinge capture plates] make removing and re-installing the doors much easier
* [https://www.airward.com/collections/airward-vans-rv10-kits/products/rv-10-mdhck-rv-10-main-door-hinge-cover-kit Airward hinge reinforcement kit], see this [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6929142440540129 FB thread 1/2024]
* See also the [[3D-Printed_Tools_and_Parts]] section for 3D-printed caps to close out the hinge pocket on the door to accommodate McMaster seals.

== Other Enhanced Door Parts / Kits / Upgrades ==
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com Aerosport Products]
** [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-low-profile-door-handle/ Low Profile Door Handle]
** [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-door-handle-covers-3/ Interior Door Handle Cover]
** [https://www.youtube.com/user/AerosportProducts/videos Installation Videos]
* [https://planearound.com/shop Planearound], see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6065285950259120 FB thread]

== 180 Degree Door Latch and Low Profile Handle Hints ==
* '''All-In-One documentation''' Don't miss to check the documentation set at [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/categories/rv10 Planearound] which includes a [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 link] to a document written by David Peterson which is a revised Vans chapter 45 document with all the various modifications compiled in. The [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/30d6d013-66d1-49b2-a70e-b5d0d3523593/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Chart%20.pdf?ver=1767465551352 chart] that goes along with the document is also referenced there.
* '''Tools needed''' 
** Drill bit to upsize 7/16th door lock pin hole to 11/16th: a 5/8th countersink bit works great, e.g. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-5-8-in-High-Speed-Steel-Countersink-A10CS82/205469295 at HomeDepot]
** 7/16 reamer to upsize the door pin holes in the fuselage, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8B3G7HW at Amazon]
* '''Additional documentation''' [https://www.airplane.build/2021/08/door-latching-progress.html Damazio's write-up] of the 180 degree door latch install. He uses a string to guide the long end rack into the center cam gear box. 20/1000 safety wire works great, too.
* '''Videos'''
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZPJEq558tM Ed's low profile door handle install] (Note: The 180 degree Delrin handle part has changed, the E-clip now runs against the Delrin, not the strike plate)
** [https://youtu.be/Ql6YQF2Zogc?t=552 Austin's door latch and handle install]
* '''Door lock or outer ring (bezel) not sitting flush''' The Aerosport door handle kit assumes a bonded wall thickness of approximately 0.160 inches. It does not include a mechanism to accommodate deviations from this thickness. If the door mechanism holes are drilled prior to bonding, and clecos are used during curing, the door halves may compress tightly in the lock area. This can result in a final wall thickness of only about 0.112 inches—leaving a 0.050-inch discrepancy. This difference will cause the outer lock cover to sit proud and not flush with the surface. Conversely, if your wall thickness exceeds 0.160 inches, the lock cylinder will sit recessed within the outer cover. For doors with thinner walls, a workaround is to trim the collar of the lock so it can sit further down on the steel strike plate (see pictures below). Trimming can be done with a Dremel carbide wheel (e.g. at [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Home Depot]) and a file to make the transition square. It may also be necessary to slightly trim the 3 protruding studs of the outer ring (bezel) back for it to sit flush (see pictures below). For doors with thicker walls, consider designing a 3D-printed collar around the lock cylinder that will raise it to be flush with the cover. Modifications to the lock placement requires also modifications to the lock's latch as the pre-bent latch included in the low profile handle kit makes assumptions about the lock's position. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10086580921462916 FB Post] [[File:2026-02-09 11-14-01.jpg|267x267px]]  [[File:2026-02-09 11-47-20.jpg|267x267px]]
* '''Door handle cover modifications''' PlaneAround 180 degree latch together with Aerosport interior door handle beauty cover causing binding [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5427322947388760 (FB 10/11/2022)]
* '''Low profile door handle hints'''
** The outside spring gets between the moving shaft and the low profile door handle. This may cause the inside roll pin not sitting down all the way into the cutout of the steel plate, therefore not properly securing the door handle in the locked position. Consider bending the narrow side of the spring more open so it easily slides over the shaft, and insert the narrow part of the spring first.
** The roll pin may on first insertion not find the far end exit hole because the initial thickness of the elevated area on the back side of the door handle is preventing the door handle to sit down far enough into the handle enclosure. Very careful sand off the elevated area until the pin inserts properly, and without causing any binding during the handle operation. Grinding the area down too far may foil your attempt to tune the down resting point of the handle so it just doesn't touch the outer skin in the locked position.
* '''Threads'''
** PlaneAround [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6065285950259120/ FB thread]
** Low profile handle + 180 degree [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6194339494020431/ FB thread 6/2023], [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6496382083816169/ FB thread 9/2023] [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6712170572237318/ FB thread 11/2023]

SB6667A

2026-04-01T18:12:44Z

Martin:

Only thin-wall pins are subject of this SB. Heavy-wall pins which are used if you have higher compression are not affected.

If you engine was built from a Lycoming kit with order number 05K31541at an engine shop, you have heavy-wall pins and are not affected. If you have questions about your particular kit or engine, send email to Technicalsupport@Lycoming.com. They answer promptly.

SB6667A

2026-04-01T18:12:21Z

Martin: Created page with "Only thin-wall pins are subject of this SB. Heavy-wall pins which are used if you have higher compression are not affected. If you engine was built from a Lycoming kit with order number 05K31541at an engine shop, you have heave-wall pins and are not affected. If you have questions about your particular kit or engine, send email to Technicalsupport@Lycoming.com. They answer promptly."

Only thin-wall pins are subject of this SB. Heavy-wall pins which are used if you have higher compression are not affected.

If you engine was built from a Lycoming kit with order number 05K31541at an engine shop, you have heave-wall pins and are not affected. If you have questions about your particular kit or engine, send email to Technicalsupport@Lycoming.com. They answer promptly.

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-04-01T18:09:48Z

Martin: /* Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement (thin-wall pins only).
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-04-01T04:08:45Z

Martin: /* Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement.
Check form '''8130-3 (Authorized Release Certificate), field 13:''' If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.

If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:

- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours

- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-03-31T19:38:36Z

Martin: /* Vans Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement.
Affected Date code: '''8130-3'''
If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.
If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:
- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours
- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-03-31T19:31:32Z

Martin: /* Vans Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Vans Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement.
Affected Date code: '''8130-3'''
If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.
If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025:
- If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins within 25 hours
- if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil before next flight
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-03-31T19:28:30Z

Martin: /* Vans Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Vans Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming piston pin LW-13445 replacement.
Date code: 8130-3
If date between January 7, 2021 and March 22, 2023: Replace pins on next engine overhaul.
If date between March 23, 2023 and December 15, 2025: If engine has less than 150 hours: Replace piston pins, if more than 150 hours: check for metal in oil.
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-03-31T18:58:05Z

Martin: /* Vans Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Vans Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB6667A]]
|Lycoming [https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2026-03/SB667A%20Piston%20Pin%20Replacement.pdf SB667A]
|2026/3/12
|Lycoming Piston Pin Replacement
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-25T00:54:29Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 per 10 oz @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T07:35:19Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Tensile strength
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135)
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Elongation
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135)
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527)
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T07:28:17Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|paste
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Temperature range
| -55F to 300F
| -58F to 194F
|-
|Work Life
|30-40 min
|45 min
|-
|Cure time
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity
|-
|Application environment
|40F to 122F
|50F to 90F
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T06:14:23Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine

Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine

Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T06:13:52Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine
Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine
Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T06:13:23Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side: $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply

Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine
Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine
Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T06:13:02Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Canopy side: $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply
Primer Window side: none
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine
Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine
Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:55:58Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|-
|Price
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply
Primer: $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply
|
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:44:37Z

Martin: /* Window Bonding */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|-
|Sanding / Painting
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later.
|Can be sanded and painted.
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:42:33Z

Martin: /* 45-08 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
== Window Bonding ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|26:1 High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:41:33Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]
{| class="wikitable"
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex
!
!Silpruf SCS2000
!Sikaflex 295-UV
|-
|Chemistry
|Silicone
|Polyurethane
|-
|Consistency
|moderately thick
|thick
|-
|Application
|regular Caulk Gun
|26:1 High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun
|-
|UV Resistance
|100% UV resistant
|May be affected by UV long term
|-
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side
|-
|Later Window Replacement
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string.
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder.
|}

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:03:55Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-24T05:03:37Z

Martin: /* Silpruf Method */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR

2026-03-23T06:15:30Z

Martin: /* Page 34-6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need a door lock and weather seal, options: [[Door_Locks_/_Hinges_/_Handles]]

Modifications to Consider

* Consider making the door removable (see below)
* Consider adding some stiffeners to the inside skin of the door -- some people have dented the door trying to force it closed against luggage. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24565021783192256 FB post]

=== Hints ===
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Removable Door ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqsJr1VQ76I Ed's video on how to make the door removable] Note: you will need more hinge pin length than with the stock setup. [[File:411079963 10231975591278338 2712301933896565881 n.jpg|350x350px]]
* If the pins ends seem loose, consider securing them with a safety wire. Thread the safety wire all the way over to the other end of the door and grab them through the door lock hole. Twist the ends and form the wire so it sits flush when pulling the safety wire all the way back towards the hinge. Safety wire the hinge pins. [[File:2023-12-13 20-19-03.jpg|533x533px]] Split hinge pin with safety wires.
* Allen's solution is a 3D-printed part to secure the hinge pins, see [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2022/07/31/baggage-door-complete/ allenglen.com] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-12-14 at 4.19.49 PM.png|350x350px]]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 34-4 ====
* Step 9 - consider making the door fit perfectly (page 34-6) before closing out the door. Once you rivet the inner panel to the door, it won't warp.
* Your door flanges may not be completely straight. The longeron above the door should be straight, and so should the top edge of the door. If that's not true then you'll need to straighten something out.
==== Page 34-6 ====
* Step 4 - see [[Door_Locks_/_Hinges_/_Handles]] for weather strip options.
* Step 5 - You may not be able to reach the upper two AN470AD4-5 and AN470AD4-7 rivets from the backside. Some report success using e.g. a 12 inch back riveting set as bucking bar. Consider using pull rivets, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/26062865100074576/ FB Post] for potential candidates.

[[Category:Hints]]

SB-00079

2026-03-21T15:39:49Z

Martin: Created page with "Where to buy emergency egress hammer proposed by the SB: * [https://store.vansaircraft.com/emergency-egress-hammer.html @Vans] (out of stock) * [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDQ1RFFZ @Amazon] (out of stock) * [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PNH2TL5 @Amazon] (same hammer but with flash light attached)"

Where to buy emergency egress hammer proposed by the SB:

* [https://store.vansaircraft.com/emergency-egress-hammer.html @Vans] (out of stock)
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDQ1RFFZ @Amazon] (out of stock)
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PNH2TL5 @Amazon] (same hammer but with flash light attached)

RV10 Community Wiki

2026-03-21T15:28:57Z

Martin: /* Vans Service Bulletins */

<seo title="Home Page" metakeywords="RV10, Community, Wiki, Aircraft, Airplane, kit, RV-10, Vans, Van's, Vans Aircraft, kitplane, RV, builders, Gotchas" metadescription="RV-10 Aircraft Builder Community Wiki with section by section tips from builders for builders. Hints for modifications and options." />

'''You just finished a step and it was hard to figure out how to do it?''' Pass on your lessons learned and contribute to this non-profit RV-10 Wiki: '''[[Instructions]]''' Note: There are many links on this Wiki to the closed RV-10 Facebook groups [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (the active one) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (the retired, older one, neither is operated by Vans Aircraft). Consider joining these two groups to benefit from the information there. There are also links to [https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4 vansairforce.net], consider joining the list and donating to the owner that keeps it running.
-----
'''RV-10 Wiki Admin News''': [[Admin News|Click here]]
-----
__TOC__
----
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Hints&action=pdfbook Download all hints as pdf-book] (broken, to be fixed soon)
* [https://www.rv10.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Optional&action=pdfbook Download all options as pdf-book] (broke, to be fixed soon)
* [https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Special:PopularPages Popular RV10.org Pages] 
* [https://playcanvas.itch.io/swooop So, you don't want to build today? Game of the Day]
== Similar Wikis for other aircraft models ==
* [https://rv15.org RV-15] (just created)
* [https://rv14.org RV-14] (redirects to a Dropbox with RV-10 files)
* [https://wiki.velocityoba.com/ Velocity]
* [http://www.cozybuilders.org/ Cozy Mark IV]

== Van's Aircraft RV-10 Kit: Build Instruction Hints / "Gotchas" by Section ==
Red means page has no contents yet. Click a red link to create that page if you have something to share.
==== Empennage ====
[[File:RV10.png|thumb|right|500px]]
* [[SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE]]
* [[SECTION 5: GENERAL INFORMATION]]
* [[SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 7: RUDDER]]
* [[SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER]]
* [[SECTION 9: ELEVATORS]]
* [[SECTION 10: TAILCONE]]
* [[SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH]]
* [[SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS]]

==== Wings ====
* [[SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 14: WING RIBS]]
* [[SECTION 15: REAR SPAR]]
* [[SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE]]
* [[SECTION 18: FUEL TANK]]
* [[SECTION 19: STALL WARNING SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 20: BOTTOM WING SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 21: AILERON]]
* [[SECTION 22: FLAP]]
* [[SECTION 23: AILERON ACTUATION]]
* [[SECTION 24: WING TIP]]
==== Fuselage ====
* [[SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS]]
* [[SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 27: FIREWALL]]
* [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN]]
* [[SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS]]
* [[SECTION 30: STEP INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 31Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY]]
* [[SECTION 32: TAILCONE ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 33: BAGGAGE AREA]]
* [[SECTION 34: BAGGAGE DOOR]]
* [[SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS]]
* [[SECTION 36: BRAKE LINES]]
* [[SECTION 37: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 38: RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION 41Q: UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION 42: REAR SEAT BACKS]]
* [[SECTION 43: CABIN COVER]]
* [[SECTION 44: WING ATTACHMENT]]
* [[SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES]]
* [[SECTION 45A: CABIN DOOR SAFETY LATCH]]
==== Firewall Forward, Seats, Cabin Heat ====
* [[SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR]]
* [[SECTION 47: SPINNER & COWLING]]
* [[SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS]]
* [[SECTION 49: SEATS & SEAT BELTS]]
* [[SECTION 50: CABIN HEAT AND VENTILLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF1: ENGINE INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION FF2: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION FF3: CONTROL CABLES]]
* [[SECTION FF4: FUEL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF5: OIL SYSTEM]]
* [[SECTION FF6: EXHAUST SYSTEM]]
* [[FILTERED AIR BOX (FAB) INSTRUCTIONS]]
==== Final Inspection and Flight Test ====
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE AIRFRAME]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION AND INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREPARATION OF THE PILOT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PRE FLIGHT PLANNING]]
* [[CHAPTER: WEATHER]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: SELECTING THE RIGHT AIRPORT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EMERGENCY PLANS AND EQUIPMENT]]
* [[CHAPTER: PREFLIGHT CHECK]]
* [[CHAPTER: OTHER IMPORTANT PREPARATIONS]]
* [[CHAPTER: TAXI TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: THAT FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: LANDING]]
* [[CHAPTER: POST FIRST FLIGHT]]
* [[CHAPTER: EXPANDING THE ENVELOPE]]
* [[CHAPTER: PERTINENT THOUGHTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: CARRYING PASSENGERS DURING PHASE I TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: TYPICAL TESTS]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLIGHT TEST PROCEDURES]]
* [[CHAPTER: DIRECTIONAL (YAW) STABILITY]]
* [[CHAPTER: LATERAL STABILITY FLIGHT TEST]]
* [[CHAPTER: STALL TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: SPIN TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED CALIBRATION]]
* [[CHAPTER: LIMIT TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: FLUTTER TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: G-LOAD TESTING]]
* [[CHAPTER: AIRSPEED INDICATOR MARKINGS]]
* [[CHAPTER: RECORDING FLIGHT TEST DATA]]

==== Optional Sections ====
* [[SECTION OP-36: WINGTIP LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-37: RV-10 WIRING HARNESS]]
* [[SECTION OP-38: ELECTRIC AILERON TRIM]]
* [[SECTION OP-40: COWL BAFFLE]]
* [[SECTION OP-43: ACCESS PANEL INSTALLATION]]
* [[SECTION OP-48: RV-10 AHRS BRACKET]]
* [[SECTION OP-50: FUEL PUMP NOISE FILTER]]
* [[SECTION OP-51: SHEET METAL BASICS]]
* [[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]]
* [[SECTION OP-52A: AERO LEDS SUN SPOT LX]]
* [[SECTION OP-55: WING TIP NAV STROBE LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-56: TAIL LIGHTING]]
* [[SECTION OP-60: (AD)AHRS BRACKETS]]
* [[SECTION OP-64: RV-10 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]]
----

== Ordering Kits - Main Items They Contain And Items to Delete ==
 Please check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/order-a-kit/kit-prices-and-lead-times/ current pricing at Vans]!

Notes:
* The standard order for the kits is: Empennage, Wings, Fuselage, Finishing Kit
* The empennage kit is traditionally first -- it is fairly cheap and easy
* But you could also start with the wing kit first, or even the fuselage kit (you won't be able to fully finish the fuselage kit without the tailcone (in the Empennage kit), though)
* Consider buying some [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap] prior to receiving your Fuselage kit; it is really impossible to properly inspect the transparencies (rear side windows and windshield) without removing the protective wrap that will be on them. You can remove that wrap, inspect for any scratches or issues, and then install your own Collision Wrap. Being able to remove and replace this wrap will also be helpful while installing the windows.
* The wing kit can be done at almost any time. You won't typically attach the wings until the build is complete, so it's OK to build them early in the process or wait until later.
* If you do the fuselage kit before you have received your wing kit, you will need to buy [[SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN|temporary wing-mounting bolts]] and you will need to [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-730-bellcrank-jig-w-730.html buy] or fabricate the [[SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM|W-730 template]].
* There is also the Firewall-Forward Kit which is needed if you go with the standard IO-540 engine
* There are some third-party items that may have very long lead times that you may want to consider ordering very early in your build process:
** IO-540 Engine (18mo to 3yr lead times as of 2025)
** Quickbuild Fuselage and/or Wing kits
** Interior leather/carpet, especially if you want something custom
** Andair Fuel Valve (up to 1yr lead time and needed in the Fuselage build)
** Exterior Paint (some shops have several years lead-time)
** Avionics/Wiring (only if you want to outsource the design and wiring)
* If you get stuck waiting on something, consider some of the suggestions in [[What to do when stuck]]

{| class="wikitable" style="margin:left"
|+ New RV-10 kit pricing December 2023
|-
!Kit!!Old (wheels in finish kit) March 2023!!Old (wheels in fuse kit) June 2023!!New (wheels in fuse kit) Dec 2023!!Delta!!Delta
|-
|Emp||5,750||5,750||7,600||1,850||32.2%
|-
|Wing||12,760||12,760||17,550||4,790||37.5%
|-
|Fuse||22,835||26,830||35,450||8,620||32.1%
|-
|Finish||23,150||19,155||25,300||6,145||32.1%
|-
|Std kit||64,495||64,495||85,900||21,405||33.2%
|-
|QB kit||83,900||83,900||111,500||27,600||32.9%
|}
Note: as of December 2023, deleting items from kits is generally no longer an option. Seems Firewall Forward kit is though an exception, ask Vans.
* [[Empennage Kit]]
* [[Wing Kit]]
* [[Fuselage Kit]]
* [[Finishing Kit]]
* [[Firewall Forward Kit]]

== Shop and Tools ==
* [[Shop and Tools]]

== Quick Build Specific Instructions ==
* [[QB Fuselage]]
* [[QB Wings]]

== Cradles ==
* [[Fuselage Cradle]]
* [[Wing Cradle]]

== Vans Service Bulletins ==
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=service-bulletins&sort=date Reference Link] ''(Don't assume the list below is up-to-date)''
{| class="wikitable"
! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for hints) !! style="text-align:left;" | ID (click for document)!! style="text-align:left;" | Date !! style="text-align:left;" | Summary
|-
|[[SB-00079]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00079/ SB-00079]
|2026/03/20
|Recommendation to carry Emergency Egress Hammer
|-
|[[FAA-2024-1695]]
|[https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2024/10/31/2024-25365/airworthiness-directives-lycoming-engines FAA-2024-1695]
|2024/10/31
|Lycoming Connecting Rods manufactured 2009-2017
|-
|[[SB-00007|SB-00007 REV 2]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/SB-00007-RV-10-Gear-Weldment-Replacement.pdf SB-00007 REV 2]
|2024/10/28
|Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
|[[SB-00103]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/SB-00103-Dynon-Canopy-Warning-Software.pdf SB-00103]
|2024/7/11
|Dynon update v16.7 triggers door latch warning at 200 rpm in error.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00080-RV-14-Oil-Cooler-Inspection-R2.pdf SB-00080]
|2024/2/15
|Rev 2 of this document adds an image and video link, directing owners to install fittings with two wrenches to avoid damage to the cooler.
|-
|[[SL-00091]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SL-00091-Laser-Cut-Parts-R1.pdf SL-00091]
[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VAD-10041R6_LaserCutPartsList.pdf VAD-10041R6]

[https://www.vansaircraft.com/engineering_assessment_lcp Laser-Cut Parts Engineering Evaluation]
|2023/11/9
|Ongoing issue with cracks at laser cut holes, see Van's statement [https://www.vansaircraft.com/2023/07/information-about-dimpled-hole-cracking-on-some-laser-cut-parts/ here] and discussions here: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=216676 VAF thread] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6245885968865783/ FB thread]. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10168527904010525/ FB Thread on SL-00091] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e9DNp-FafY Van's statement on new repair kits that speed up LCP compliance work]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFbZL51F2PA Van's statement on approaching deadlines for LCP replacement orders] Check [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date RV-10 Service Letters] for instructions.
|-
|[[SB-00090]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/SB-00090-Dynon-SV-AP-PANEL-Runaway-Trim.pdf SB-00090]
|2023/11/6
|Dynon SV-AP-PANEL autopilot control panel
|-
|[[SB-00043]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/SB-00043-RV-10-and-RV-14-Elevator-Cracks.pdf SB-00043]
|2023/9/6
|Inspection of elevator skins for cracks.
|-
|[[SB-00080]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00080/ SB-00080] [https://www.airflow-systems.com/wp-content/uploads/service-bulletin-061223.pdf Airflow SB-0001]
|2023/6/19
|Specific serial numbers of 2006 X-Series oil coolers (K19-16202-25 through 40) may leak.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 3
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036/ SB-00036 Rev 3]
|2023/2/28
|Updated version (Rev 3) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00036]] Rev 1
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-00036 SB-00036 Rev 1]
|2023/2/2
|Updated version (Rev 1) of SB-00036. Cracks on horizontal stabilizer spar near elevator hinge brackets.
|-
|[[SB-00066]]
|[https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/SB-00066-Andair-Fuel-Pump-Ethenol-Use-Warning.pdf SB-00066]
|2022/10/21
|Prohibited use of ethanol in Andair fuel pumps.
|-
| [[SB-00007]]|| Not public || 2021/2/19 || Revised Landing Gear Mount WD-01021-L/R-1
|-
| [[SB-00002]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SB-00002-RV-10-Bottom-Rudder-Hinge-Bracket.pdf SB-00002]|| 2020/5/11 || Rudder Hinge Bracket
|-
| [[SB-00006]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SB-00006.pdf SB-00006]|| 2020/5/6 || Kavlico Oil Pressure Sensors
|-
| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SB-19-09-09-RV-10-Nose-Gear-Replacement.pdf SB 19-09-09]|| 2020/2/26 || Nose Gear Leg
|-
| [[SB 18-05-21]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb18-05-21.pdf SB 18-05-21]|| 2018/5/21 || Fuel Spider, make sure, the fuel flow sensor port is plugged.
|-
| [[SB 18-03-30]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf SB 18-03-30]|| 2018/3/30 || Elevator Stop
|-
| [[MT SB 31]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/MT-sb31.pdf MT SB 31]|| 2016/8/29 || MT Governors
|-
| [[SB 16-03-28]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb16-03-28.pdf SB 16-03-28]|| 2016/3/28 || Aileron Hinge Bracket / Spar
|-
| [[SB 14-12-22]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb14-12-22.pdf SB 14-12-22]|| 2014/12/22 || Nose Wheel Stop
|-
| [[SB 14-8-29]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB14-8-29.pdf SB 14-8-29]|| 2014/8/29 || Engine Mount Elastomer Plate
|-
| [[SB 11-9-13]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb11-9-13.pdf SB 11-9-13]|| 2011/9/13 || Use of Sloshing Compounds in Fuel Tanks
|-
| [[SB 10-1-4]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB10-1-4.pdf SB 10-1-4]|| 2010/1/4 || Door Safety Latch
|-
| [[SB 08-6-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB08-6-1.pdf SB 08-6-1]|| 2008/6/1 || Reinforcement of Bulkhead under Turtle Deck
|-
| [[SB 07-4-12]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb07-4-12.pdf SB 07-4-12]|| 2007/4/12 || Safety Wire for Flap Rod End
|-
| [[SB 06-9-20]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb06-9-20.pdf SB 06-9-20]|| 2006/9/20 || Elevator Trim Nut Weldment
|-
| [[SB 06-2-3]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB06-2-3.pdf SB 06-2-3]|| 2006/2/3 || Rudder Top Hinge
|-
| [[SB 04-2-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb04-2-1.pdf SB 04-2-1]|| 2004/2/1 || Protective clear Plastic Sheeting Remains in Tanks
|-
| [[SB 02-12-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb02-12-1.pdf SB 02-12-1]|| 2002/12/1 || Fuel / Oil Lines may shed Rubber Curls
|-
| [[SB 96-10-1]]|| [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/sb96-10-1.pdf SB 96-10-1] || 1996/10/1 || Add Safety Wire to Airbox Bolts
|}

== Vans Service Letters ==
Please read all service letters [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=notifications-and-letters&sort=date here].

== SDS Ignition / Injection Service Bulletins ==
Please read all service bulletins [http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm here]

== Other Build Topics (non optional) ==
* [[Air Speed Calibration]]
* [[Alternator Fuse]]
* [[Antennas]]
* [[Avionics / Panel]]
* [[Battery]]
* [[Brake Fluid]]
* [[Check Lists]]
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Door Locks]]
* [[Electrical System / Batteries / Cabling|Electrical System / Cabling]]
* [[ELT]]
* [[Engine Options]]
* [[First Flight]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Interior Paint]]
* [[Magnetometer]]
* [[Noise Certificate]] (Europe)
* [[OAT - Outside Air Temperature Probe]]
* [[Pitot Static Kits]]
* [[Pitot Tube]]
* [[POH]]
* [[Propeller / Governor]]
* [[Seat Belts]]
* [[Stick Grips]]

== Optional Aftermarket Modifications==
* [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]
* [[AC Installation]]
* [[Access Panels]]
* [[Actuators]]
* [[Air Fuel Ratio O2 Exhaust Sensors]]
* [[Backup Alternator]]
* [[ Brakes / Wheels]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Brake Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[CAD CAM Files]]
* [[Contactor]]
* [[Covers]]
* [[Cowl]] / Cowl Fasteners
* [[Current Sensors]]
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]] / Seals / Struts
* [[Drag Reduction]]
* [[Engine Dehydration]]
* [[Engine Options|Electronic Ignition / Injection]]
* [[Engine Preheat]]
* [[Extended Fuel Tanks]]
* [[Fast Tail]]
* [[Fiberglass / Fairings]]
* [[Fire Extinguisher]]
* [[Firewall Heat Insulation]]
* [[Flap Position Sensor]]
* [[Fuel Caps]]
* [[Pre-fabricated fuel and brake lines|Fuel Lines (pre-fabricated)]]
* [[Fuel Vent and Drain Fairings]]
* [[Fuel Valve]]
* [[Grip Tape]]
* [[Ground Power Plug]]
* [[Heater Valve]]
* [[Interior]]
* [[Long Range Tanks]]
* [[Oil Cooler]]
* [[Oil Separator for Crank Case Vent Line]]
* [[Oil Quick Drain]]
* [[Oxygen]]
* [[Parachute]]
* [[Parking Brake]]
* [[Plenum]]
* [[Rear Naca Vents]]
* [[Rudder Cable Fairings]]
* [[Rudder Pedals]]
* [[Seat Adjustment Lever]]
* [[Steps]]
* [[Sun Visor]]
* [[Tire Pressure Sensors]]
* [[USB Charge Ports]]
* [[Tow Bar / Tug]]
* [[Tug Guard]]
* [[Yaw Damper Servo]]
* [[Windows]]
* [[Wing Tips]]
See also Reanaissance Sean's excel sheet with costs (from April 2022): [[Media:RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx|RV-10 Kit cost.xlsx]]

==Builder Logs ==
[[BuilderLogs|Builder Log Feature Table]]

== RV10.org Apps ==
[[rv10.org PlaneTour App]]

==Builder Assist==
* [[AP Planebuilder]] (Florida)
* [[Saint Aviation]] (Florida)
* [[Synergy Air]] (Oregon, Georgia)
* [[Custom Aircraft Builders]] (New York)

== Registration ==
* [[Registration Hints]]
* [[FAA-Registered RV-10s]]
* [[Brasil-Registered RV-10s]]

== Phase 1 ==
* [[Task-Based / 40 hours]]

==Hints for flying Airplanes==
* [[Condition Inspection / Annual]]
* [[Cruise Settings]]
* [[Cleaning]]
* [[Engine Start]]
* [[Ferry Service]]
* [[Fuel Tank Repair]]
* [[Grease]]
* [[Instrument Approaches]]
* [[Maintenance]]
* [[POH|POH, Weight and Balance]]
* [[Takeoff]]
* [[Tire Pressure]]

== Most relevant Wiki editing help pages ==
Useful if you use the legacy "edit source" method instead of "edit" which launches visual edit.
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Formatting|Formatting]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Links|Links]]
*[[mediawikiwiki:Help:Images|Images]]

SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES

2026-03-21T06:13:34Z

Martin: /* 45-04 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 03/10/05 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/03/45_10.pdf 45_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove.
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them.
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals.
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies.
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread].
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]]
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* For door options see the page [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Locks / Hinges / Handles / Seals]].
* The PlaneAround Center Cam is considered a must-have safety device by most builders.
* Especially if using the McMaster seals, consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two upgraded door strut mounts].
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times).
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors.

== General ==
* If you are installing the PlaneAround third latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the inner and outer door shell, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8964629853658034 FB post]. Advantage is that you don't need a slot at the bottom of the door and up the inside. Disadvantage is potential gear box contamination during the bonding of the door halves.
* Do not clean adhesive residue off the windows with anything but mineral spirits. Do not clean with concentrated alcohol. The exact instructions can be found [https://www.airplaneplastics.com/faq here].
* Door fit: See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191460 VAF Thread] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3229350953852648 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/3896153890505681 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8361445567309802 FB post] and this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519695101484837 FB post] and these videos by BuildFlyGo:
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp5ju1KiR7w Video 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v_bfXoGBRU Video 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHsJOOXBgsA Video 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-bBM92M6mg Video 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xL2i6moB0 Video 5]
* Epoxy to use: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7171726742948363 FB Thread 3/2024]
* After trimming the windows, you might need to renew the protective wrap, consider using [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV collision wrap].
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration.
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process.
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates.

== 45-02 ==
* The holes in the two door halves don't align, just use the ones that do align, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7377429765711392 FB thread] 4/2024. If the bottom 4 holes align nicely, ignore the top two holes.
* Don't round off the bottom corners when trimming. Some open holes in the fuselage skin sit in those corners and need to be match drilled with a hole finder or with the split lines.
* You don't have to mark up the cutting lines for the inner half. After marking up and trimming the outer half, cleco the halves together, then copy the outlines including for the window from the outer half to the inner half.

== 45-04 ==
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler.
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling.

== 45-05 ==
* Step 2: a thin painter's plastic drop cloth works well to protect the fuselage from the door epoxy.
* NOTE: if using PlaneAround 180 degree latch, consider installing the gearbox before bonding the two door halves together.
* Step 7: The cabin top has a flat spot between the doors and the rear window. Your door will not fit flush in this area and you'll have to fix the cabin top with epoxy later. See portion marked red in this picture:
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.37.jpg|none|thumb|Red box indicates flat spot in RV-10 cabin top mold that causes the door to not sit flush.]]

== 45-06 ==
* A bolt is used as hinge pin. Consider grinding down the head a bit if it interferes with the cabin pocket.
* A group of builders are working on a hinge cover, see [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/84d0ba8a64dbd86d8aee8ad1/w/ed92d4e493cd33946f3013d2/e/1d170d74353b23aebd0a0215 OnShape CAD project], check fit using this 1:1 print [[Media:Hinge cover v2.pdf| pdf file]]
* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.
* A [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts|3D printable Aalignment jig]] is available to use in lieu of three scrap aluminum spacers.
* More than one AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.
* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim. [[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]] See also section 4: [[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

== 45-08 ==
* Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below.
* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows.
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle.
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]]
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]]

=== Silpruf Method ===
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video]
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]]
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article].
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread].
* Notes
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation.
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well.

=== Sikaflex ===
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions]
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]] Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here].
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread]

* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread]
* Be diligent with the window attachment, this VAF thread talks about a window which popped out during flight: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212875 this happens]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7045514052236300 Feb 2024 FB thread]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7901947189926311 Aug 2024 FB thread]

== 45-09 ==

* Skip this whole page if using the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles

== 45-10 ==
* Step 3: The handle lever might be covered with a very thin, clear protection foil. Remove it before deburring / polishing!

== 45-11 ==

* Step 1: do not cut the C-RACK if using the PlaneAround 180-degree latch -- follow its instructions instead.
* Steps 2-4: follow Aerosport instructions instead if using their low-profile exterior handle

== 45-12 ==

If using PlaneAround 180-degree latch you will still temporarily fit the door blocks but then later replace them with the PlaneAround versions.

== 45-13 ==

These steps are slightly different if using Aerosport low-profile exterior handles

== 45-15 ==

* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit.
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. [[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]
* Step 3 / Figure 1: The instructions are incorrect. You need to shim the inside (where the two center punched points are) during drilling. Hint: the piano hinge flanges are 40/1000" thick. Note: The aftermarket pin guides are ready to be used, there is no need to prepare and install the stock ones first.

== 45-16 ==

==== Step 1 ====
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket.
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

==== Step 3 ====
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.

== 45-17 ==
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation].
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides.
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush.
* Temporarily install the seal and shut/clamp the door. Make sure that the compressible part of the seal is compressed to no less than 1/4" all around. Make sure the door sits flush outside the plane. If the gap is not large enough, the seal will compress too much, and the door may bulge.
* Once the gap is sufficiently wide, mix up some epoxy plus micro so it isn't runny and fill in the channel in the seal as you place it around the door. Close and clamp the door to its normal shut position. Let the epoxy dry. Then remove and throw away the seal, sand, paint, and otherwise finish the interior/exterior of the lip, then install fresh seal.
* More information on installing the McMaster seals can be found here: [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.12.jpg|none|thumb|Door jam flange sanded parallel to door ready for installation of epoxy-filled sacrificial McMaster Carr door seal.]]
[[File:2025-07-05 11.20.01.jpg|none|thumb|Installed McMaster Carr door seals.]]

== 45-19 ==
* Windscreen base fairing lay-up [[Media:Windshield to Fuse Transition Steps.pdf|Windshield_to_Fuse_Transition_Steps.pdf]] See also [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/canopy-fiberglass-fairing-how-to-video-series/ Van's video for the RV14].

[[Category:Hints]]

Fuel Valve

2026-03-03T14:49:29Z

Martin: /* Notes */

* [https://www.andair.co.uk/category/fuel-selectors/ Andair] provides highly customizable fuel valves. You need one if your electronic injection needs a fuel return line. '''The long shipping delays observed in prior years seem to have been resolved (as of Nov/2025).'''

For installation hints, see als [[Aerosport_Hints|Armrest Installation Hints]].
=== Notes ===
* The stock Van's valve [https://store.vansaircraft.com/va-178g-fuel-valve-drilled-va-178g.html] switches one path (from one of the tanks to the mechanical fuel pump). For engines with injectors that have a return line, you need to switch the additional return line back to the selected tank.
* Andair has some select models available through Aircraft Spruce but probably not the one you need for the RV-10. The company is in England and you need to order custom valves through email [mailto:andair@andair.co.uk]
* If you are going with AS Flightlines [https://www.aircraftspecialty.com/] for ready-made fuel lines, they will tell you which exact variant you need to order from Andair. E.g. for injection systems that need a return line, you need to order "EFS20-20-D2-TMT Duplex Extension Valve" ("4 EF20 elbows on the wing ports and 2 MF20 fittings on the discharge/return ports on the valve front."). You will also need the "6" extension kit" (4 holes in the Fascia plate) which means the fascia plate can come off when you need access to the tunnel.
* The Andair valve has different hole patterns than the stock valve. Common practice is to make a doubler plate that has the right holes for the valve plus additional holes to mount to the stock bracket that stays underneath. See also [[Aerosport_Hints]].
* Andair has different ways to extend the shaft up to the top of the tunnel. You need to order what they call the "extension kit", not just the extension option of the valve itself.
* Andair says on their website that the 20-20 model is only good up to 200 hp. TS flightlines says otherwise. All RV-10 that they know of use the 20-20 model and it's been verified to let through 80 gph.
* The valve is commonly shipped with the ports not bolted down. You need Loctite 648 for the assembly (not available at Home Depot, Lowes or auto stores, order it online ahead of time).

[[Category:Optional]]

Door Locks / Hinges / Handles

2026-03-02T17:23:36Z

Martin:

== Locks & Keys ==
See [[Door Locks]] for more information.

== Seals ==

=== Cabin Door Seals ===
* Many builders decide to put the door seals on the fuselage side instead of onto the inside of the door. Two McMaster order numbers are being used: [https://www.mcmaster.com/1120A311 1120A311] (lip on inside, 3/16 edge thickness, 3/8 high): [[File:Screen Shot 2024-03-21 at 1.59.37 PM.png|300x300px]] [[File:McMasterSeal.jpg|300x300px]] [[File:McMaster2.jpg|300x300px]] '''1120A311''' and 1120A313 (lip on outside, 3/16 edge thickness, 3/8 high). Since you are building up the inside edge, the lip is better being on the inside as the groove for it will automatically form when using a throwaway seal as mold. Consider trimming the lip down, both when doing the mold, and the final install. The full lip makes it hard to get the final seal seated. The trimming can be done with a jig where you have a utility knife blade stick out of a wooden board plus left and right guides, so you only need to pull the seal through the jig once. Some builders prefer the 1120A411 variant which is for 1/4 edge thick edges. The 311 variant works fine to about 0.2" wall thickness meaning some areas (i.e. the bottom edge) need a bit of inside wall trimming. Builders usually sacrifice one set of seals as mold to form out the edges, then replace it with a clean second set. You need about 12 ft per door. This procedure will need at least 4 x 12 ft., most builder buy a bulk pack with 100 ft for future seal maintenance as some builders experience a gap where the ends meet after some time, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8671462906308065 FB thread]. Consider placing the gap behind the gas strut attach bracket. After you have your doors sit flush, and the hinges and door pins are installed, you mark a line on the canopy 0.285" back from the door's inner skin. This is the minimum distance so the seal's push-back isn't making it too hard to close the doors. The maximum distance should be 0.385". Trimming to the minimum line will make the canopy rim very thin in some areas, but with the sacrificial seal method, the inside wall will be built back up to the nominal 3/8 or 1/4 depending on the seal order number. The McMaster seal requires the hinge pockets to be closed. There are several ways to accomplish this, some are permanent which means you have to remove the door hinges on the canopy side, some prefer removable caps, see also [[3D-Printed Tools and Parts]]. See also:
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5447766402011081 FB thread]
** [https://marksfamilyrv10.wordpress.com/2019/02/14/doors-kinda-of-seal-it-up/ Mark's builder log]
** [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=218680 VAF thread]
** [https://vansairforce.net/threads/mcmaster-door-seal-edge-forming.153155/ VAF thread]
** [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/10/28/door-seals-and-latches/ Glen's builder log]
** [http://buildingrv10.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-door-seals.html Justin Twilbeck's log]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BirT35dY-QQ BuildFlyGo's video]
** [https://ivankristensen.smugmug.com/Building-an-RV-10-EXPERIMENTAL-aircraft/Cabin-doors/i-fbs77m4/A Ivan Kristensen's video] with door trim measurements
** [https://ivankristensen.smugmug.com/Building-an-RV-10-EXPERIMENTAL-aircraft/Cabin-doors Ivan Kristensen's door seal photos] (now on smugmug, no longer on ivankristensen.phanfare.com). The sparse text for photos is available on the [https://web.archive.org/web/20150111090452/http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_3334806 web archive].
** [[Media:RV-10 McMaster Carr Door Seal Installation Compilation.pdf|Les Kearney's door seal compilation pdf]] (originally posted to the Matronics mailing list)
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7639470282840671 FB thread]

* Some builders use the standard Vans way of putting the seals on the doors but use better seals sold by McMaster.
** See [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=221469 VAF thread]

=== Luggage Door Seals ===
* [https://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/ Aircraft Door Seals] [[File:2023-12-16 18-31-07.jpg|533x533px]]
* See also this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=222256 VAF Thread]

== Door Strut Upgrades ==
* [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/door-strut-attach-brackets-set-of-two Upgraded strut brackets] (especially useful if you use McMaster door seals)
* [https://store.vansaircraft.com/c-1016-hd-rv-10-heavy-duty-door-strut-c-1016-hd.html Heavy Duty Door Strut from Vans (600 instead of 500N)]
* [https://store.easylift.com/a1a1f50-100-287-600n/ Bansbach easylift door strut A1A1F50-100-287 part#10017Y1 (600N instead of 500N, call to order)]
* Ordering 650N at Bansbach: Select the 650N version of [https://store.easylift.com/b0n0f50-100-247-xxxn/ B0N0F50-100-247/XXXN], add 2 of those, then add 4 of the end fittings [https://store.easylift.com/end-fittings/a1-m8-aluminum-hinge-eye-endfitting/ A1 M8 Aluminum Hinge Eye Endfitting]. These end fittings yield a total length of the 287mm similar to the other fully assembled struts. First timers can try coupon code 15PERCENTOFF. If you use the upgraded strut brackets, the Bansbach end fittings need to be trimmed back on the canopy side. Ensure that the gas strut has enough play at the upgraded strut bracket side so it can swivel a tiny bit. When the door opens, the gas strut will be forced a bit sideways as the hinge line of the door and hinge line of the upgraded strut do not 100% align.
* [https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20230111_Lift_Struts/ Tim Olson's build page on struts]
* Door strut hardware [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4863472447107149 (FB 3/22/2022)]
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8705872866200402 FB thread].

== Hinges ==
* [https://brassmonkey.tech/store/ Machined hinge capture plates] make removing and re-installing the doors much easier
* [https://www.airward.com/collections/airward-vans-rv10-kits/products/rv-10-mdhck-rv-10-main-door-hinge-cover-kit Airward hinge reinforcement kit], see this [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6929142440540129 FB thread 1/2024]
* See also the [[3D-Printed_Tools_and_Parts]] section for 3D-printed caps to close out the hinge pocket on the door to accommodate McMaster seals.

== Other Enhanced Door Parts / Kits / Upgrades ==
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com Aerosport Products]
** [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-low-profile-door-handle/ Low Profile Door Handle]
** [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-door-handle-covers-3/ Interior Door Handle Cover]
** [https://www.youtube.com/user/AerosportProducts/videos Installation Videos]
* [https://planearound.com/shop Planearound], see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6065285950259120 FB thread]

== 180 Degree Door Latch and Low Profile Handle Hints ==
* '''All-In-One documentation''' Don't miss to check the documentation set at [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/categories/rv10 Planearound] which includes a [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 link] to a document written by David Peterson which is a revised Vans chapter 45 document with all the various modifications compiled in. The [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/30d6d013-66d1-49b2-a70e-b5d0d3523593/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Chart%20.pdf?ver=1767465551352 chart] that goes along with the document is also referenced there.
* '''Tools needed''' 
** Drill bit to upsize 7/16th door lock pin hole to 11/16th: a 5/8th countersink bit works great, e.g. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-5-8-in-High-Speed-Steel-Countersink-A10CS82/205469295 at HomeDepot]
** 7/16 reamer to upsize the door pin holes in the fuselage, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8B3G7HW at Amazon]
* '''Additional documentation''' [https://www.airplane.build/2021/08/door-latching-progress.html Damazio's write-up] of the 180 degree door latch install. He uses a string to guide the long end rack into the center cam gear box. 20/1000 safety wire works great, too.
* '''Videos'''
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZPJEq558tM Ed's low profile door handle install] (Note: The 180 degree Delrin handle part has changed, the E-clip now runs against the Delrin, not the strike plate)
** [https://youtu.be/Ql6YQF2Zogc?t=552 Austin's door latch and handle install]
* '''Door lock or outer ring (bezel) not sitting flush''' The Aerosport door handle kit assumes a bonded wall thickness of approximately 0.160 inches. It does not include a mechanism to accommodate deviations from this thickness. If the door mechanism holes are drilled prior to bonding, and clecos are used during curing, the door halves may compress tightly in the lock area. This can result in a final wall thickness of only about 0.112 inches—leaving a 0.050-inch discrepancy. This difference will cause the outer lock cover to sit proud and not flush with the surface. Conversely, if your wall thickness exceeds 0.160 inches, the lock cylinder will sit recessed within the outer cover. For doors with thinner walls, a workaround is to trim the collar of the lock so it can sit further down on the steel strike plate (see pictures below). Trimming can be done with a Dremel carbide wheel (e.g. at [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Home Depot]) and a file to make the transition square. It may also be necessary to slightly trim the 3 protruding studs of the outer ring (bezel) back for it to sit flush (see pictures below). For doors with thicker walls, consider designing a 3D-printed collar around the lock cylinder that will raise it to be flush with the cover. Modifications to the lock placement requires also modifications to the lock's latch as the pre-bent latch included in the low profile handle kit makes assumptions about the lock's position. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10086580921462916 FB Post] [[File:2026-02-09 11-14-01.jpg|267x267px]]  [[File:2026-02-09 11-47-20.jpg|267x267px]]
* '''Door handle cover modifications''' PlaneAround 180 degree latch together with Aerosport interior door handle beauty cover causing binding [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5427322947388760 (FB 10/11/2022)]
* '''Low profile door handle hints'''
** The outside spring gets between the moving shaft and the low profile door handle. This may cause the inside roll pin not sitting down all the way into the cutout of the steel plate, therefore not properly securing the door handle in the locked position. Consider bending the narrow side of the spring more open so it easily slides over the shaft, and insert the narrow part of the spring first.
** The roll pin may on first insertion not find the far end exit hole because the initial thickness of the elevated area on the back side of the door handle is preventing the door handle to sit down far enough into the handle enclosure. Very careful sand off the elevated area until the pin inserts properly, and without causing any binding during the handle operation. Grinding the area down too far may foil your attempt to tune the down resting point of the handle so it just doesn't touch the outer skin in the locked position.
* '''Threads'''
** PlaneAround [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6065285950259120/ FB thread]
** Low profile handle + 180 degree [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6194339494020431/ FB thread 6/2023], [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6496382083816169/ FB thread 9/2023] [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6712170572237318/ FB thread 11/2023]