SECTION 21: AILERON - Revision history

Martin: /* Page 21-09 */

2025-09-19T20:03:13Z

Page 21-09

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:03, 19 September 2025
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	==Page 21-09==		==Page 21-09==
	Step 4: Make sure the tabs of the 4 outer ribs grab the flange of the spar. Make sure the smaller bottom end ribs (A-1005B-1) go inside the larger ones from the top (A-1005A-1).<br>Consider using 3-4 rivets for the 4 rivets that hold the corner tabs.		Step 4: Make sure the tabs of the 4 outer ribs grab the flange of the spar. Make sure the smaller bottom end ribs (A-1005B-1) go inside the larger ones from the top (A-1005A-1).<br>Consider using 3-3.5 rivets for all nose ribs. The manual suggests 3-3 for the A-1015-1 nose rib but they are a bit short for the task, especially if you prime.<br>Consider using 3-4 rivets for the 4 rivets that hold the corner tabs.

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 21-09 */

2025-09-19T20:00:19Z

Page 21-09

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:00, 19 September 2025
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	==Page 21-09==		==Page 21-09==
	Step 4: Make sure the tabs of the 4 outer ribs grab the flange of the spar. Make sure the smaller bottom end ribs (A-1005B-1) go inside the larger ones from the top (A-1005A-1).		Step 4: Make sure the tabs of the 4 outer ribs grab the flange of the spar. Make sure the smaller bottom end ribs (A-1005B-1) go inside the larger ones from the top (A-1005A-1).<br>Consider using 3-4 rivets for the 4 rivets that hold the corner tabs.

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 21-05 */

2025-09-19T19:02:29Z

Page 21-05

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:02, 19 September 2025
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	Step 5: Mark the top, sloped trim lines before cutting the stiffeners apart else you cut the reference points away.		Step 5: Mark the top, sloped trim lines before cutting the stiffeners apart else you cut the reference points away.

			==Page 21-09==
			Step 4: Make sure the tabs of the 4 outer ribs grab the flange of the spar. Make sure the smaller bottom end ribs (A-1005B-1) go inside the larger ones from the top (A-1005A-1).

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 21-03 */

2025-09-08T22:09:06Z

Page 21-03

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:09, 8 September 2025
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	== Page 21-03 ==		== Page 21-03 ==
	Consider deferring the riveting of A-1007-1B and A-1006-1B plates to the A-1005A-1 ribs until after the top skin is attached to the spar on page 21-08. This will allow for better access to the spar attach rivets that end up being inside the hinge brackets. Just be sure to attach them before the bottom skin gets attached.		Consider deferring the riveting of A-1007-1B and A-1006-1B plates to the A-1005A-1 ribs until after the top skin is attached to the spar on page 21-08. This will allow for better access to the spar attach rivets that end up being inside the hinge brackets. Just be sure to attach them before the bottom skin gets attached. If you attach the parts per manual, you most likely have to grind off one side of a straight 470 -4 rivet set as the stem is too thick to allow centering the rivet set.

	== Page 21-04 ==		== Page 21-04 ==

Martin: /* Page 21-05 */

2025-08-15T15:45:16Z

Page 21-05

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:45, 15 August 2025
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	Step 3: The aileron counterbalance pipe is made from stainless steel and is much harder than aluminum. When match drilling the aileron counterbalance attach holes through the nose skin it is easy for the bit to wander and significantly enlarge the pre-punched holes in the nose skin. Drill slowly, checking often that you're centered especially when starting to drill the holes. Another option would be to just mark the holes in the counterbalance and remove the skin before drilling the holes (as described for step 2).		Step 3: The aileron counterbalance pipe is made from stainless steel and is much harder than aluminum. When match drilling the aileron counterbalance attach holes through the nose skin it is easy for the bit to wander and significantly enlarge the pre-punched holes in the nose skin. Drill slowly, checking often that you're centered especially when starting to drill the holes. Another option would be to just mark the holes in the counterbalance and remove the skin before drilling the holes (as described for step 2).

			Step 5: Mark the top, sloped trim lines before cutting the stiffeners apart else you cut the reference points away.

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 21-02 */

2025-08-13T19:20:26Z

Page 21-02

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:20, 13 August 2025
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	== Page 21-02 ==		== Page 21-02 ==
	Step 2: it says to dimple all #40 holes in the flanges, but the holes that hold the screws for the counterbalance tube are not to be dimpled, they will be enlarged to #27 and the AN526C632R8 screws that go into them have round heads.		Step 2: it says to dimple all #40 holes in the flanges, but the #40 pilot holes that hold the screws for the counterbalance tube are not to be dimpled, they will be enlarged to #27 and the AN526C632R8 screws that go into them have round heads.

	== Page 21-03 ==		== Page 21-03 ==

Martin: /* Page 21-03 */

2025-08-13T19:19:30Z

Page 21-03

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:19, 13 August 2025
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	== Hints ==		== Hints ==
	The counter balance pipe ends 2/3 down in the aileron, so critters can get inside the aileron through the counter balance pipe. Consider closing up the pipe with a plug or aluminum tape before storage.		The counter balance pipe ends 2/3 down in the aileron, so critters can get inside the aileron through the counter balance pipe. Consider closing up the pipe with a plug or aluminum tape before storage.

			== Page 21-02 ==
			Step 2: it says to dimple all #40 holes in the flanges, but the holes that hold the screws for the counterbalance tube are not to be dimpled, they will be enlarged to #27 and the AN526C632R8 screws that go into them have round heads.

	== Page 21-03 ==		== Page 21-03 ==

Martin: /* Page 21-05 */

2025-08-13T16:45:57Z

Page 21-05

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:45, 13 August 2025
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	==Page 21-05==		==Page 21-05==

	Step 3: The aileron counterbalance pipe is made from stainless steel and is much harder than aluminum. When match drilling the aileron counterbalance attach holes through the nose skin it is easy for the bit to wander and significantly enlarge the pre-punched holes in the nose skin. Drill slowly, checking often that you're centered especially when starting to drill the holes. Another option would be to just mark the holes in the counterbalance and remove the skin before drilling the holes.		Step 3: The aileron counterbalance pipe is made from stainless steel and is much harder than aluminum. When match drilling the aileron counterbalance attach holes through the nose skin it is easy for the bit to wander and significantly enlarge the pre-punched holes in the nose skin. Drill slowly, checking often that you're centered especially when starting to drill the holes. Another option would be to just mark the holes in the counterbalance and remove the skin before drilling the holes (as described for step 2).

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 21-04 */

2025-08-13T16:42:31Z

Page 21-04

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:42, 13 August 2025
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	== Page 21-04 ==		== Page 21-04 ==
	Consider buying a Cobalt drill bit for drilling into the stainless steel counter-balance tube.		Step 4: Consider buying a Cobalt drill bit for drilling into the stainless steel counter-balance tube.

	==Page 21-05==		==Page 21-05==

Martin: /* Hints */

2025-08-13T16:37:48Z

Hints

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:37, 13 August 2025
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	== Hints ==		== Hints ==
	The counter balance pipe ends 2/3 down in the aileron, so critters can get inside the aileron through the counter balance pipe. Consider closing up the pipe with aluminum tape before storage.		The counter balance pipe ends 2/3 down in the aileron, so critters can get inside the aileron through the counter balance pipe. Consider closing up the pipe with a plug or aluminum tape before storage.

	== Page 21-03 ==		== Page 21-03 ==