SECTION 7: RUDDER - Revision history

43092min: /* Builder Videos */ Added video from Minos Pilacoutas

2025-09-10T06:46:51Z

Builder Videos: Added video from Minos Pilacoutas

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:46, 10 September 2025
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	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]
	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]
			Minos Pilacoutas:

			* [https://youtu.be/9SXV1OO9r4E Start to finish]

	=== Notes ===		=== Notes ===

Martin at 14:24, 19 April 2025

2025-04-19T14:24:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:24, 19 April 2025
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	I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).		I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).

	[[~~index.php?title=~~Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Kirkbauer at 14:22, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T14:22:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:22, 23 February 2025
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	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]
	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]

			=== Notes ===

	==== Page 7-4 Step 2 ====		==== Page 7-4 Step 2 ====

Kirkbauer: Added Before you Start section

2025-02-23T00:51:42Z

Added Before you Start section

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:51, 23 February 2025
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	* 11/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/07_10.pdf 07_10.pdf]		* 11/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/07_10.pdf 07_10.pdf]
	Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]		Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

			=== Before You Start ===
			Special/New Tools/Supplies

			* Soft-face hammer
			* You will need Fuel Tank Sealant that is not included in the kit. You will definitely need more of this in the future; if you buy the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/2-5-lb-flamemaster-integral-fuel-tank-sealant-pro-seal-mc-236-b2.html larger kit] you can store it in the refrigerator for later, or you can buy the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/3-5-oz-flamemaster-integral-fuel-tank-sealant-pro-seal-mc-236-b1-2.html smaller kit] just for this section.

	=== Builder Videos ===		=== Builder Videos ===
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	* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.		* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.
	* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].		* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].
			* Step 6: It's best to alternate top/bottom for the trailing-edge clecos to avoid slightly warping the trailing edge.
	* This may be your first time using sealant -- I suggest buying the larger 2-can kit from Van's and storing in your refrigerator. You'll need to use a lot of it in the future and it will store for a long time. I mix with a popsicle stick and then I use it to spread on the trailing edge like a spatula. I run the popsicle stick sideways to remove excess.		* This may be your first time using sealant -- I suggest buying the larger 2-can kit from Van's and storing in your refrigerator. You'll need to use a lot of it in the future and it will store for a long time. I mix with a popsicle stick and then I use it to spread on the trailing edge like a spatula. I run the popsicle stick sideways to remove excess.

RV10Mike: 7-6 step 12 was mislabeled as 7-7 step 12

2024-11-22T11:48:13Z

7-6 step 12 was mislabeled as 7-7 step 12

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:48, 22 November 2024
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	==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====		==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
	"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.		"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.

			==== Page 7-6 Step 12 ====

			You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge

	==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====		==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====
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	This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.		This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.

	~~==== Page 7-7 Step 12 ====~~

	~~You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge~~

	==== Page 7-9 ====		==== Page 7-9 ====

FFooccuuss: /* Page 7-6 Step 11 */

2024-04-22T20:16:45Z

Page 7-6 Step 11

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:16, 22 April 2024
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	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]
	*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]		*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]

			==== Page 7-4 Step 2 ====
			If your microstop (countersink) cage interferes with the radius of the R-1005 Rudder Horn on the 2nd set of countersink holes, one solution is to use a shim between the microstop cage and the part. I used a stepped drill bit (unibit) to put a 5/16" hole in a large popsicle stick that measured .060" thick. If you set the perfect depth of the microstop on the previous two holes, then .060" is exactly two full turns clockwise to account for the thickness of the popsicle shim. Don't forget to reset the depth of the cage afterwards!
			[[File:PXL 20240422 195058219.jpg\|none\|thumb\|Countersink shim for R-1005 Rudder Horn]]
			[[File:PXL 20240422 195204750-crop.jpg\|none\|thumb\|Countersink shim stack-up with rudder horn]]

	==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====		==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
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	I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).		I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

Kirkbauer at 20:08, 21 April 2024

2024-04-21T20:08:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:08, 21 April 2024
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	There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.		There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.

			I used the pipe method as described in the instructions using lots of painter's tape to attach it to the skin. But I had to start with a l-1/4" outer diameter and then switch to a smaller diameter pipe to finish the job. You have to roll it much further than 90 degrees to get it to sit at more or less 90 degrees. Also, when you roll, make sure you don't crease the skin along the front spar. I lay the rudder with the skin against the table and then I press down against the table while I roll. I used vice grips on the end of the PVC pipe to apply more torque to the rotation.

	==== Page 7-11 Step 6 ====		==== Page 7-11 Step 6 ====

Kirkbauer at 20:06, 21 April 2024

2024-04-21T20:06:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:06, 21 April 2024
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	"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.		"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.

	~~'''~~Page 7-7 Step 1~~'''~~		==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====

	Step 1 instructs the builder to rivet together R-1004A&B Bottom Rib halves. This results in difficulty in riveting the R-1004 Bottom Rib Assembly to the R-1001-R Skin as instructed in Step 3 on Page 7-8. This is because of inability to get a rivet squeezer into the triangular converging tip between R-1004A and R-1004B (see figure below). Recommend delaying 7-7 Step 1 until after 7-8 Step 3. In doing so, there will be ample room to utilize a rivet squeezer. Otherwise, insert a chisel on top of the rivet and buck the chisel face to set the rivet.		Step 1 instructs the builder to rivet together R-1004A&B Bottom Rib halves. This results in difficulty in riveting the R-1004 Bottom Rib Assembly to the R-1001-R Skin as instructed in Step 3 on Page 7-8. This is because of inability to get a rivet squeezer into the triangular converging tip between R-1004A and R-1004B (see figure below). Recommend delaying 7-7 Step 1 until after 7-8 Step 3. In doing so, there will be ample room to utilize a rivet squeezer. Otherwise, insert a chisel on top of the rivet and buck the chisel face to set the rivet.
	[[File:Rudder Trailing Edge.jpg\|none\|thumb\|Trailing edge of rudder assembly where R1004A and R1004B meet]]		[[File:Rudder Trailing Edge.jpg\|none\|thumb\|Trailing edge of rudder assembly where R1004A and R1004B meet]]

			==== Page 7-7 Step 5 ====

			This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.

			==== Page 7-7 Step 12 ====

			You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge

	==== Page 7-9 ====		==== Page 7-9 ====
	* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.		* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.
	* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].		* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].
			* This may be your first time using sealant -- I suggest buying the larger 2-can kit from Van's and storing in your refrigerator. You'll need to use a lot of it in the future and it will store for a long time. I mix with a popsicle stick and then I use it to spread on the trailing edge like a spatula. I run the popsicle stick sideways to remove excess.

			==== Page 7-11 Step 1 ====

			For better appearance, I recommend alternating the direction of each rivet on the trailing edge. I also recommend using a squeezer with a special die set made for this: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/flat-squeezer-sets

	==== Page 7-11 Step 2 ====		==== Page 7-11 Step 2 ====
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	There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.		There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.

			==== Page 7-11 Step 6 ====

			I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).

	[[Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Martin: /* Page 7-11 Step 2 */

2023-11-23T10:33:09Z

Page 7-11 Step 2

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:33, 23 November 2023
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	There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.		There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.

			[[Category:Hints]]

Dualratedflyer: Insertion of Page 7-7 Step 1 guidance

2023-04-26T14:40:38Z

Insertion of Page 7-7 Step 1 guidance

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:40, 26 April 2023
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	==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====		==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
	"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.		"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.

			'''Page 7-7 Step 1'''

			Step 1 instructs the builder to rivet together R-1004A&B Bottom Rib halves. This results in difficulty in riveting the R-1004 Bottom Rib Assembly to the R-1001-R Skin as instructed in Step 3 on Page 7-8. This is because of inability to get a rivet squeezer into the triangular converging tip between R-1004A and R-1004B (see figure below). Recommend delaying 7-7 Step 1 until after 7-8 Step 3. In doing so, there will be ample room to utilize a rivet squeezer. Otherwise, insert a chisel on top of the rivet and buck the chisel face to set the rivet.
			[[File:Rudder Trailing Edge.jpg\|none\|thumb\|Trailing edge of rudder assembly where R1004A and R1004B meet]]

	==== Page 7-9 ====		==== Page 7-9 ====
	* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.		* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.