SECTION 24: WING TIP

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• Step 3: Cutting the lens is easy - use your tin snips and then sand to get the edges straight. Using a Dremel melts it and it leaves a bulky burr. Also, note that either half of the cut lens can appear to fit on either wing. But each half of the lens will only fit "like a glove" on one wingtip. Make sure you don't try to put the wrong lens on the wrong wing.

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• Step 1: The RV-14 instructions specify that you can use a ratchet strap to squeeze the wingtip to make sure that the flanges bulge out and make it easier to match-drill.

Note that some builders suggest waiting until the wings are on the plane and the ailerons rigged before you drill these. One builder mounted the wingtips in the wing cradle while vertical for easy access (put the flaps to the stop, lined up the ailerons, then lined up the wing tip). Their outcome was a wingtip that was 1/4" low, and they had to cut the back edge apart to be able to adjust the wing tip so it would align nicely with the aileron.

That builder's solution was to cut the back edge, and drill out the W-1016 wingtip rib. Then they moved everything back into alignment, filled with flox, and glued it back together. There is a layer of fiberglass on the inside that was folded to connect top and bottom. They replaced that with two layers of BID. This could possibly have been avoided.

• Step 5: It's hard to tell in Figure 3 but note that the W-1016 Wing Tip Rib has the flat side facing inboard (so it's flush with the edges of the wingtip). Note that the W-1016 Wing Tip Rib has a break in it; make sure your rivet pattern takes that into account (it can be easy to not look at Figure 2).

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• Step 4: Consider using a #40 countersink bit to countersink the #28 holes into the fiberglass. You can rivet the nutplates first, then the #40 countersink bit will fit nicely into the threaded hole of the nutplate.